Spending one more day in Kathmandu before I catch my flight home. The rest flew out today except me and Bernie, a 67 year old farmer from New Zealand. Just have to get my bike boxed up and I'm ready to fly home.
Thursday, May 30, 2019
Wednesday, May 29, 2019
May 29 - Day 25 Kalikastahn to Kathmandu
Our last day of cycling...where did the time go? Seems like just yesterday I was sitting in my tent, looking over the itinerary thinking we still had 12 cycling days left and wondering how I was going to do it. And today we are all done. Ox has been running this trip for 12 years, 60+ trips, and I'm the first woman to complete the entire trip!!!!
Today was particularly difficult because for most of the day it was 42C! Very hot and that was during the entire climb. There were a few tears shed, and a few cuss words used, but I got it done. It helped that the boys never complained about how slow I was, and today the youngest member of the team, American David came back and cycled a few km with me, encouraging me and telling me that he was not going to let me ride in the van....just the boost that I needed at the time.
When we got to the top there was a bit of rain to cool us off, and make the steep descent very treacherous, but everyone made it down in one piece...the next obstacle was navigating the traffic in Kathmandu without losing anyone which is not easy feat when there really aren't any traffic laws. Motorcycles and scooters crowd around the vehicles and funnel ahead so we did the same thing. It was crazy traffic but once again we made it with the team and bicycles intact!!!
We had a great farewell dinner and tomorrow starting at 0600 everyone will depart except for me and Bernie...we are both staying one extra day. Not sure what I'll do yet...but I will find something to keep us entertained.
Today begins with a steep descent of just under 1,000m over a distance of 15km. We continue to follow the Trishuli river downhill for a further 17 km before challenging a final monster climb of over 1,000m 34km, then its downhill for the final 22km into Kathmandu. Tonight, we will gather together to celebrate the end of our epic journey. In the evening we get together for that all important and well-deserved celebratory meal!
Accommodation: Hotel
Maximum Altitude: 2,205m
Sleeping Altitude: 1,314m
Distance: 76km
Today was particularly difficult because for most of the day it was 42C! Very hot and that was during the entire climb. There were a few tears shed, and a few cuss words used, but I got it done. It helped that the boys never complained about how slow I was, and today the youngest member of the team, American David came back and cycled a few km with me, encouraging me and telling me that he was not going to let me ride in the van....just the boost that I needed at the time.
When we got to the top there was a bit of rain to cool us off, and make the steep descent very treacherous, but everyone made it down in one piece...the next obstacle was navigating the traffic in Kathmandu without losing anyone which is not easy feat when there really aren't any traffic laws. Motorcycles and scooters crowd around the vehicles and funnel ahead so we did the same thing. It was crazy traffic but once again we made it with the team and bicycles intact!!!
We had a great farewell dinner and tomorrow starting at 0600 everyone will depart except for me and Bernie...we are both staying one extra day. Not sure what I'll do yet...but I will find something to keep us entertained.
Today begins with a steep descent of just under 1,000m over a distance of 15km. We continue to follow the Trishuli river downhill for a further 17 km before challenging a final monster climb of over 1,000m 34km, then its downhill for the final 22km into Kathmandu. Tonight, we will gather together to celebrate the end of our epic journey. In the evening we get together for that all important and well-deserved celebratory meal!
Accommodation: Hotel
Maximum Altitude: 2,205m
Sleeping Altitude: 1,314m
Distance: 76km
Tuesday, May 28, 2019
May 28 - Day 24: Rasuwa Ghadhi to Kalikasthan
Today started early, mostly because the time change we were all awake at 0400. It felt much too early after the BBQ party last night.
Today was a very warm day, now that we are at a lower elevation.
Things are so different in Nepal...it feels more chaotic and busy and crazy. Some of the homes are just corrugated metal for walls and roofs while some homes are actual brick.
The plateau of Tibet is gone, and we are in the hills of Nepal where we climb up to the ridge on very steep roads then once we are at the top, it's a steep downhill to the river to cross the bridge then back up to the ridge...all on very rough gravel roads that are very narrow. This means that there is constant honking of horns, and twice I came off the bike because I thought that the bus coming towards me was going to hit me.
We saw many children that where very excited to shout "hello" to us. A few children even ran beside us...trying to race me!!! One child ran almost 500m uphill...in sandals! Quite impressive.
A long, tough day, but fun too with great scenery. No photos again today due to the slow wifi but will try to post them tomorrow morning once I'm back in Kathmandu. There was a bombing in Kathmandu yesterday, and now there is a strike causing the entire city to come to a stand still. Things should be back in order for us to get to the airport and fly home.
Have a good day everyone!!
From Rasuwa Garhi we we cycle the Pasang Lhamu Highway alongside the along the Trishuli River beginning on narrow road bordering the Langtang National Park. We enjoy a scenery of waterfalls, river, gorges and forest; small houses cling to the steep mountain sides. We begin our ride with a pleasant 14km gentle descent to the foot of Syapru Besi village a popular start point for people trekking in the Langtang valley. From here we climb on winding road to Dhunche village 2/3 of the way up where we stop for lunch. Look out for views through the clouds of Langtang Lirung peak (7246m).
Accommodation: Guest House (B,L,D)
Maximum Altitude: 2205m
Sleeping Altitude: 1075m
Distance: 52 km
Today was a very warm day, now that we are at a lower elevation.
Things are so different in Nepal...it feels more chaotic and busy and crazy. Some of the homes are just corrugated metal for walls and roofs while some homes are actual brick.
The plateau of Tibet is gone, and we are in the hills of Nepal where we climb up to the ridge on very steep roads then once we are at the top, it's a steep downhill to the river to cross the bridge then back up to the ridge...all on very rough gravel roads that are very narrow. This means that there is constant honking of horns, and twice I came off the bike because I thought that the bus coming towards me was going to hit me.
We saw many children that where very excited to shout "hello" to us. A few children even ran beside us...trying to race me!!! One child ran almost 500m uphill...in sandals! Quite impressive.
A long, tough day, but fun too with great scenery. No photos again today due to the slow wifi but will try to post them tomorrow morning once I'm back in Kathmandu. There was a bombing in Kathmandu yesterday, and now there is a strike causing the entire city to come to a stand still. Things should be back in order for us to get to the airport and fly home.
Have a good day everyone!!
From Rasuwa Garhi we we cycle the Pasang Lhamu Highway alongside the along the Trishuli River beginning on narrow road bordering the Langtang National Park. We enjoy a scenery of waterfalls, river, gorges and forest; small houses cling to the steep mountain sides. We begin our ride with a pleasant 14km gentle descent to the foot of Syapru Besi village a popular start point for people trekking in the Langtang valley. From here we climb on winding road to Dhunche village 2/3 of the way up where we stop for lunch. Look out for views through the clouds of Langtang Lirung peak (7246m).
Maximum Altitude: 2205m
Sleeping Altitude: 1075m
Distance: 52 km
Monday, May 27, 2019
May 27 - Day 23: Gyirong to Rasuwa Ghadhi
Today was a fabulous day. Our last day in tibet was all downhill!!! The first 30 km were through a canyon just as the sun was coming up. It was fast and cold but fun and scenic. After the tea stop we kept on going.
Hill with trees to the top, white clad mountains in the background, dandelions on the roadside, a glacier fed river rushing beside us. So much like the Rockies that I could have been home. Until I looked up and saw a monastery high up on the hill. Ginsing said it was originally a cave built in the 13th century. Eventually they built a building and a walk way to get up there. Currently there are 6-7 residential monks living there.
The border crossing was interesting. We have a van with our day packs and other gear and a big truck with the tents, personal, dining and cooking tents along with all the food and more gear. Everything had to be unloaded from both vehicles and brought into the Chinese border crossing building - a huge air conditioned building. Then everything had to be carried across to the Nepalese border...now a dirt road and a small shack with two windows, with a piece of paper taped to each window one saying in Nepal and the other said out Nepal!
Now we are sitting down to a Nepalese style BBQ, pork pieces over an open fire and rum to wash it down! Although we still have two more days of riding, today feels like a celebration.
Today's route begins with 42km on undulating road; we then drop over 200m for the next 50km as we follow the Girong Zangbo river, to reach Mangmu. We continue on for 8km to the border to cross the Friendship bridge bidding Tibet farewell. The border point between the two countries sits in a valley of approximately 300m. On the Nepalese side is the Rasuwa Fort, the site of a three-day battle during the second campaign of Sino-Nepalese War in 1792. The fort was constructed on the site in 1855 when Nepal invaded Qing-ruled Tibet in the Nepalese-Tibetan War. We stay tonight at Rasuwa Ghadhi.
Accommodation: Guest House
Maximum Altitude: 4,093m
Sleeping Altitude: 2,046m
Distance: 92km
Hill with trees to the top, white clad mountains in the background, dandelions on the roadside, a glacier fed river rushing beside us. So much like the Rockies that I could have been home. Until I looked up and saw a monastery high up on the hill. Ginsing said it was originally a cave built in the 13th century. Eventually they built a building and a walk way to get up there. Currently there are 6-7 residential monks living there.
The border crossing was interesting. We have a van with our day packs and other gear and a big truck with the tents, personal, dining and cooking tents along with all the food and more gear. Everything had to be unloaded from both vehicles and brought into the Chinese border crossing building - a huge air conditioned building. Then everything had to be carried across to the Nepalese border...now a dirt road and a small shack with two windows, with a piece of paper taped to each window one saying in Nepal and the other said out Nepal!
Now we are sitting down to a Nepalese style BBQ, pork pieces over an open fire and rum to wash it down! Although we still have two more days of riding, today feels like a celebration.
Today's route begins with 42km on undulating road; we then drop over 200m for the next 50km as we follow the Girong Zangbo river, to reach Mangmu. We continue on for 8km to the border to cross the Friendship bridge bidding Tibet farewell. The border point between the two countries sits in a valley of approximately 300m. On the Nepalese side is the Rasuwa Fort, the site of a three-day battle during the second campaign of Sino-Nepalese War in 1792. The fort was constructed on the site in 1855 when Nepal invaded Qing-ruled Tibet in the Nepalese-Tibetan War. We stay tonight at Rasuwa Ghadhi.
Accommodation: Guest House
Maximum Altitude: 4,093m
Sleeping Altitude: 2,046m
Distance: 92km
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Sunday, May 26, 2019
May 26 - Day 22: Paiku Tso Lake to Gyirong
Another good day of cycling...well I can say that now that it's done. Two 500 m passes today...the first was a long traverse and the second was switchbacks so we saw the entire climb from the bottom.
The entire day was cold, especially the second decent, my hands and feet got very cold and I stopped a few times to warm up. Going down was slow as it was switchbacks and the pavement was broken in many places. Holes deep enough to throw me off my bike if I hit them wrong going to quickly.
Yesterday we had the option to stay in a tea house or in our tents. As a result we had the dining area of the tea house where the owner started a fire for us after we arrived because it was cold. Just as we started to eat, two sheep herders came in, both men approximately 25 years old. They both had long hair which was braided and wrapped in a colourful cloth. They also wore a turquoise earring which is traditional for Tibetan men.
Through our Tibetan guide we were able to talk to them. Their meal was ramen noodles...the packages that you just add water to and stir, and several cans of coke. We had pizza for supper so we gve them a piece. The one liked it and the other one didn't. Too many flavours he said.
We were all huddled in the tea house and they were getting ready to go back out to spend the night. They did not have a tent, all they had was a blanket to either sleep on or cover themselves with if it's cold. Here we are at the end of May and it's very cold except for the few sunny hours in the middle of the day. They are very hardy for sure...I have no idea how many days in a row they will spend outside before getting back to their homes, potentially all summer long.
Not long before there were eight young nuns who were walking around the lake because it's considered a sacred lake. They stopped in for a pitcher of hot milk, and then continued their journey in the cold, windy night. We saw a few of them this morning, walking, as we cycled by. They will do this circuit once and I think it will take them several days to get around as there are likely many prayer stops. A dedicated life for sure.
So now that my day is done, I'm sitting in my warm tent, the sun is shining and I'm getting ready for a shower. I'm thinking about the young nuns on their pilgrimage and I'm thinking of all the sheep and goat and yak herders that we have seen throughout our travels as well as the women and men labouring on various construction projects. I hope that I can remember them the next time I'm complaining about my trivial problems.
Heading away from the lake, today is the
biggest challenge of the tour so far! We cycle 2 monster passes the first at
5,000m, the second 5,253m. The rest of the cycling is downhill to reach
Gyirong. This region of Tibet is known as the back garden of the Himalayas.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,253m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,093m
Distance: 53km
The entire day was cold, especially the second decent, my hands and feet got very cold and I stopped a few times to warm up. Going down was slow as it was switchbacks and the pavement was broken in many places. Holes deep enough to throw me off my bike if I hit them wrong going to quickly.
Yesterday we had the option to stay in a tea house or in our tents. As a result we had the dining area of the tea house where the owner started a fire for us after we arrived because it was cold. Just as we started to eat, two sheep herders came in, both men approximately 25 years old. They both had long hair which was braided and wrapped in a colourful cloth. They also wore a turquoise earring which is traditional for Tibetan men.
Through our Tibetan guide we were able to talk to them. Their meal was ramen noodles...the packages that you just add water to and stir, and several cans of coke. We had pizza for supper so we gve them a piece. The one liked it and the other one didn't. Too many flavours he said.
We were all huddled in the tea house and they were getting ready to go back out to spend the night. They did not have a tent, all they had was a blanket to either sleep on or cover themselves with if it's cold. Here we are at the end of May and it's very cold except for the few sunny hours in the middle of the day. They are very hardy for sure...I have no idea how many days in a row they will spend outside before getting back to their homes, potentially all summer long.
Not long before there were eight young nuns who were walking around the lake because it's considered a sacred lake. They stopped in for a pitcher of hot milk, and then continued their journey in the cold, windy night. We saw a few of them this morning, walking, as we cycled by. They will do this circuit once and I think it will take them several days to get around as there are likely many prayer stops. A dedicated life for sure.
So now that my day is done, I'm sitting in my warm tent, the sun is shining and I'm getting ready for a shower. I'm thinking about the young nuns on their pilgrimage and I'm thinking of all the sheep and goat and yak herders that we have seen throughout our travels as well as the women and men labouring on various construction projects. I hope that I can remember them the next time I'm complaining about my trivial problems.
 |
| Shishapagma |
 |
| Lake |
 |
| Lake |
 |
| At first sumit with Ox |
 |
| Summit |
Maximum Altitude: 5,253m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,093m
Distance: 53km
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Saturday, May 25, 2019
May 25 - Day 21: Base of Lalung La to Paiku Tso Lake
This was supposed to be another short and easy day, and it was until lunch time. I headed off early, but only about 15 minutes early because Ox wanted us to regroup at 8 km because there was a junction there.
When I left it was very cold...and I wished that I had put on my thin down under all my layers, and worn double gloves, although I doubt that would have kept my hands warm. After the junction we were no longer surrounded by hills, but more in a very wide valley, which gave the sun a chance to warm us up.
A few kilometres down the road and we had an excellent view of Shishapagma, the 14th highest peak in the world, and the shortest of the 8000 metre peaks. Although we were still quite a few kilometres away, we had a spectacular view.
We had lunch around 44 km into our ride, and the little bit of wind that we had getting to the lunch spot died down while we ate. Today lunch was soup and then an egg roll with a mushroom mixture. All served hot. I don't know how they do it. Then, the best was a piece of watermelon to finish it off!
We still had 22 km to cycle and just a few km down the road is when the wind started. When we had a headwind, if I stopped cycling while going downhill, it would almost push me back up. Then when it turned to a side wind our bikes were leaned quite far into the wind. The scary part was when we would be passed by a big truck, that's when our bikes would weave around on their own. We just had to let them to their thing and not try to control it too much.
We are camped by a lake, and will be eating indoors tonight, which has saved the boys from putting up the dining tent, the cook tent and several of our tents as about half of the group has chosen to sleep inside tonight. I'm in a tent and I'm really hoping the wind settles down or I won't be getting any sleep tonight!
We are surrounded by some beautiful mountains, and we are camped near Paiku Tso lake, but it's so windy that I have only taken a few pictures today.
I did not have good service yesterday, so will try to update yesterday's pictures if the service here is better.
We begin the day with a steep 155m climb up
over the Lalung La Pass, heading west for the rest of the day on undulating
terrain all the way to our camp at the beautiful Paiku Tso Lake. Surrounded by towering mountains on three
sides, numerous small streams drain into the lake. There are wild birds and
horses in the surrounding area. This area is one of Tibet’s magical spots with
stunning views of the snowcapped Shiishapangma(8,012m) the only 8,000m peak
situated wholly with Tibet and the Langtang range bordering Nepal to the south.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,149m
Sleeping Altitude: 3,775m
Distance: 88km
When I left it was very cold...and I wished that I had put on my thin down under all my layers, and worn double gloves, although I doubt that would have kept my hands warm. After the junction we were no longer surrounded by hills, but more in a very wide valley, which gave the sun a chance to warm us up.
A few kilometres down the road and we had an excellent view of Shishapagma, the 14th highest peak in the world, and the shortest of the 8000 metre peaks. Although we were still quite a few kilometres away, we had a spectacular view.
 |
| Shishapagma |
We still had 22 km to cycle and just a few km down the road is when the wind started. When we had a headwind, if I stopped cycling while going downhill, it would almost push me back up. Then when it turned to a side wind our bikes were leaned quite far into the wind. The scary part was when we would be passed by a big truck, that's when our bikes would weave around on their own. We just had to let them to their thing and not try to control it too much.
We are camped by a lake, and will be eating indoors tonight, which has saved the boys from putting up the dining tent, the cook tent and several of our tents as about half of the group has chosen to sleep inside tonight. I'm in a tent and I'm really hoping the wind settles down or I won't be getting any sleep tonight!
We are surrounded by some beautiful mountains, and we are camped near Paiku Tso lake, but it's so windy that I have only taken a few pictures today.
I did not have good service yesterday, so will try to update yesterday's pictures if the service here is better.
 |
| Support Vehicle |
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,149m
Sleeping Altitude: 3,775m
Distance: 88km
Friday, May 24, 2019
May 24 - Day 20: Tingri to the Base of Lalung La
Today was a short day...only 60ish kms and mostly flat. I wasn't feeling great this morning so I headed off ahead of the group. It's my little game of whether or not I can get to the tea spot before getting caught. I didn't realize that the group plays the same game...can they catch me before the snack spot. The road was undulating and there was a bit of a headwind...and every time they saw me on the hill, they didn't think they would catch me!!! Well I made it without getting caught.
Mornings are always a special time for me...it's much more peaceful. I say I'm going off ahead so that I don't slow down the group, which is true but I also like some time alone which only works if I'm ahead. Once someone passes me it's not the same.
I had a great view of shishapagma ahead of me for the part of the cycle, and behind me was a view of Everest and I think Cho Oyu, but they were in the misty clouds so not a great view. All three are 8000 m peaks, and I've dreamt of climbing the other two, so all are very special to me.
We have also been seing there old earthen dwellings. They are from the 18th century when they were destroyed by the gherka's. At that time China intervened and helped the Tibetans push them back to Nepal.
Most of the villages we are seeing are all new, and every house looks the same. Not sure if the villages have been rebuilt because they were destroyed of if China has built the villages and has moved people into them involuntarily.
Our Tibetan guide and driver will not be allowed to cross the border into Nepal with us...I suspect because they do not have the correct permission. So complicated.
Ok, I'm off to shower...Ox had a tent set up with a large stone to stand on. We are given a bucket of warm water, a pitcher and some privacy. After four days of camping the bucket of water is such a treat!!!
Another big treat...Ox made a BBQ for us, marinated pork and potatoes over a large steel plate heated by propane. So good and I ate so much that I couldn't eat my dinner. Right now it's so windy that the dining tent was threatening to collapse. It should die down by 0500!!!
Today's cycling is predominantly flat,
although headwinds may hamper an otherwise comfortable day! The ride will take
us through a landscape of monasteries, fortresses and clear mountain rivers.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 4,563m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,560m
Distance: 62km
Mornings are always a special time for me...it's much more peaceful. I say I'm going off ahead so that I don't slow down the group, which is true but I also like some time alone which only works if I'm ahead. Once someone passes me it's not the same.
I had a great view of shishapagma ahead of me for the part of the cycle, and behind me was a view of Everest and I think Cho Oyu, but they were in the misty clouds so not a great view. All three are 8000 m peaks, and I've dreamt of climbing the other two, so all are very special to me.
We have also been seing there old earthen dwellings. They are from the 18th century when they were destroyed by the gherka's. At that time China intervened and helped the Tibetans push them back to Nepal.
 |
| Ancient Dwellings |
Our Tibetan guide and driver will not be allowed to cross the border into Nepal with us...I suspect because they do not have the correct permission. So complicated.
Ok, I'm off to shower...Ox had a tent set up with a large stone to stand on. We are given a bucket of warm water, a pitcher and some privacy. After four days of camping the bucket of water is such a treat!!!
Another big treat...Ox made a BBQ for us, marinated pork and potatoes over a large steel plate heated by propane. So good and I ate so much that I couldn't eat my dinner. Right now it's so windy that the dining tent was threatening to collapse. It should die down by 0500!!!
 |
| Cycling by the river |
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 4,563m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,560m
Distance: 62km
Thursday, May 23, 2019
May 23 - Day 19: Rongbuk to Tingri
This was one long and challenging day! We were given a 30 minute later breakfast and start today...yeah! Most of the day was on a gravel road. Rough with large rocks....it started off uphill, where I was the only one going 8-10 km/h. It ended up being mostly uphill for 18 kms, with only slight downhills. Just when I thought we were done with the uphill, I would turn the corner and see another one, and another one and...well you know, more uphill.
Then the downhill started... on an extremely washboard gravel road. There was no way to avoid it. My glasses almost vibrated off my face, and my forearms are so sore! I tried cycling faster but then I would get caught in some soft sand that would throw my bike around.
44kms of this nonsense and we were back on paved road...except now we had a strong headwind for the first 6 kms until we made a 180 degree left turn into...yup, a headwind. We were a group of six, doing a rotation, all taking turns at the front, except they kept skipping me...until I insisted I take my turn, but then they would call me off after only a few minutes. At one point we had a side gust that almost blew us off our bikes...and the headwind that just pushed against us almost stopping us in our tracks.
A tough end to a long day...but right now I'm sitting in my tent, after a little wash and a change of clothing, biscuits and hot tang and I'm ready to go again...well once the wind dies down! Maybe I'll just wait for tomorrow :)
This morning we cycle back down the valley, retracing our tracks from the previous day. For the more technically minded riders there are some excellent sections of stone single track, with Everest in the background! We continue with a superb off-road ride on smooth mountain tracks, interspersed with some very rocky rough sections that will provide a challenge even to our hardy support vehicles. We cross the Lama La Pass, at 5101m before descending on a mixture of rough sections of road, mixed with free-flowing dirt tracks and stream crossings on into the barren plains ahead of Tingri. Here we rejoin the Friendship Highway cycling to our camp just outside the town.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,168m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,355m
Distance: 79km
Then the downhill started... on an extremely washboard gravel road. There was no way to avoid it. My glasses almost vibrated off my face, and my forearms are so sore! I tried cycling faster but then I would get caught in some soft sand that would throw my bike around.
44kms of this nonsense and we were back on paved road...except now we had a strong headwind for the first 6 kms until we made a 180 degree left turn into...yup, a headwind. We were a group of six, doing a rotation, all taking turns at the front, except they kept skipping me...until I insisted I take my turn, but then they would call me off after only a few minutes. At one point we had a side gust that almost blew us off our bikes...and the headwind that just pushed against us almost stopping us in our tracks.
A tough end to a long day...but right now I'm sitting in my tent, after a little wash and a change of clothing, biscuits and hot tang and I'm ready to go again...well once the wind dies down! Maybe I'll just wait for tomorrow :)
This morning we cycle back down the valley, retracing our tracks from the previous day. For the more technically minded riders there are some excellent sections of stone single track, with Everest in the background! We continue with a superb off-road ride on smooth mountain tracks, interspersed with some very rocky rough sections that will provide a challenge even to our hardy support vehicles. We cross the Lama La Pass, at 5101m before descending on a mixture of rough sections of road, mixed with free-flowing dirt tracks and stream crossings on into the barren plains ahead of Tingri. Here we rejoin the Friendship Highway cycling to our camp just outside the town.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,168m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,355m
Distance: 79km
Wednesday, May 22, 2019
May 22 - Day 18: Tashi Dzong to Rongbuk to Everest
Today was all about Everest!!!! We didn't sleep well last night between the snoring and the dogs barking.... but none of that mattered, today we are going to see Everest!!
I left at 0815, my usual time, about 15 minutes before the group and I usually get caught around 5 km. Today was deceiving, it looked like the road was flat, even a little bit downhill yet I couldn't cycle much faster than 11 km/h so obviously it was uphill. I cycled for 15 kms and didn't see anyone...I was starting to think that I was on the wrong road, even though there was only one road. I slowed down, looked around but couldn't see anyone. Just as I decided to turn around, our van passed me! Ok...all is good. I am on the right road.
We passed the checkpoint where our visa and passports were checked, then there was another checkpoint about 8 kms later, that's as far as they allow our van to go. We were allowed to cycle to the Rongbuk monastery but the van driver and co-driver had to catch a green bus. So they loaded up our lunch and any clothing we might need while we were stopped at the basecamp.
China decided just a few months ago to close basecamp to tourists because of all the garbage there. I know that a lot of people on my Facebook feed criticized the climbers, but it's not the climbers, it's the tourists, because most of the time the climbers are up at advanced basecamp. So we had to be satisfied with the view from the monastery, and although it wasn't basecamp proper, it was still a fabulous view!
Our leader Ox said that most of the other trips that he's done, Everest has rarely been visible...and today we had a clear view! Clouds were building up behind, but from our vantage point the view was unforgettable. Glad to know that my good weather karma is holding. We had very little wind cycling in...which was all uphill, and a strong tailwind on the way our. Couldn't ask for a better day!
We climb gradually through villages where children rush to greet us, eager for any photo opportunity. They may even be keen to take a test-ride on your bike! Jagged snow-capped peaks confront us as we start our climb to Rongbuk. Your anticipation will increase at the turn of every corner as prospect of seeing Everest draws ever closer. Just beyond the monastery at Rongbuk, the awe-inspiring backdrop of Everest is a just reward for the challenges of the last few days. We have a steady 8km ride taking us to the base of the North Face, a truly spiritual experience - simply unforgettable! We return to our campsite just before Rongbuk to our campsite for the night.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,009m
Sleeping Altitude: 5,009m
Distance: 65 km
I left at 0815, my usual time, about 15 minutes before the group and I usually get caught around 5 km. Today was deceiving, it looked like the road was flat, even a little bit downhill yet I couldn't cycle much faster than 11 km/h so obviously it was uphill. I cycled for 15 kms and didn't see anyone...I was starting to think that I was on the wrong road, even though there was only one road. I slowed down, looked around but couldn't see anyone. Just as I decided to turn around, our van passed me! Ok...all is good. I am on the right road.
We passed the checkpoint where our visa and passports were checked, then there was another checkpoint about 8 kms later, that's as far as they allow our van to go. We were allowed to cycle to the Rongbuk monastery but the van driver and co-driver had to catch a green bus. So they loaded up our lunch and any clothing we might need while we were stopped at the basecamp.
China decided just a few months ago to close basecamp to tourists because of all the garbage there. I know that a lot of people on my Facebook feed criticized the climbers, but it's not the climbers, it's the tourists, because most of the time the climbers are up at advanced basecamp. So we had to be satisfied with the view from the monastery, and although it wasn't basecamp proper, it was still a fabulous view!
Our leader Ox said that most of the other trips that he's done, Everest has rarely been visible...and today we had a clear view! Clouds were building up behind, but from our vantage point the view was unforgettable. Glad to know that my good weather karma is holding. We had very little wind cycling in...which was all uphill, and a strong tailwind on the way our. Couldn't ask for a better day!
We climb gradually through villages where children rush to greet us, eager for any photo opportunity. They may even be keen to take a test-ride on your bike! Jagged snow-capped peaks confront us as we start our climb to Rongbuk. Your anticipation will increase at the turn of every corner as prospect of seeing Everest draws ever closer. Just beyond the monastery at Rongbuk, the awe-inspiring backdrop of Everest is a just reward for the challenges of the last few days. We have a steady 8km ride taking us to the base of the North Face, a truly spiritual experience - simply unforgettable! We return to our campsite just before Rongbuk to our campsite for the night.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,009m
Sleeping Altitude: 5,009m
Distance: 65 km
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Tuesday, May 21, 2019
May 21 - Day 17: Shregar to Tashi Dzong
Another fabulous day. This was the second of three challenging days in a row, and everything went well. We spent last night at a hotel which was a nice treat, but it was so cold in my room and the front desk staff were unable to get the heater in my room working...so they brought me a heated mattress pad...and held their finger to their lips saying shhhh! I guess I'm the only one to get this special treatment!!! Princess :)
I couldn't take off early today as we had two check points to go through. The visa has all of our names on it, and we have to show our passports in the same order as what's on the visa. It's not easy organizing 13 of us to collect our passports and then enter in order...like herding cats!!!
Once we were through the second checkpoint, we were free to go at our own speed. It was 23 km up with 48 switchbacks so we could almost see the entire climb from the bottom. Not sure what I prefer, seeing it all like today of having a long traverse like yesterday where you only see around the next bend.
It wasn't as steep as yesterday, now was it as cold. Eventually I made it to the top and was rewarded with a spectacular view of Everest! Unfortunately my little camera didn't do it justice. It is huge and magnificent and amazing. As we headed down, at almost every switchback we has a different view, so I stopped and took a lot of pictures
We did not cycle past many settlements or people working in the fields today so no children running out to the road shouting "Hello, Hello" like we've had for the past several days. No matter how tired we are from cycling we always look up, wave and shout back "Hello" to all the children.
We are at a great campground, encircled by stone walls which is great because the wind has really picked up, and there are a few scrubby trees to provide some shade. While the sun is up it's very hot, but once it goes down around 7:30 pm it gets quite cool...cool enough to wear a down jacket to dinner.
Tomorrow we will see how close we can get to basecamp. Have a great day everyone!
A fast descent from camp takes us through a checkpoint and to the turn-off for the highlight of the tour: Everest! The early morning sun softens the rugged appearance of the landscape bathing the snow-dusted mountains around us in light. The terrain changes abruptly as we leave the main road towards Everest and the switchback-climb to the top of the Pang La (5205m) is slow going. On a clear day you will enjoy stunning views of the Himalayas at the top of the pass, with Everest directly in front of you. Another fast descent of endless hairpin bends takes us through settlements where local people group together in the fields drinking Yak tea and making bricks. We drop further onto an almost desert-like valley floor surrounded by rugged mountains cycling on to our campsite for the night.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,205m
Sleeping Altitude: 4213m
Distance: 80km
I couldn't take off early today as we had two check points to go through. The visa has all of our names on it, and we have to show our passports in the same order as what's on the visa. It's not easy organizing 13 of us to collect our passports and then enter in order...like herding cats!!!
Once we were through the second checkpoint, we were free to go at our own speed. It was 23 km up with 48 switchbacks so we could almost see the entire climb from the bottom. Not sure what I prefer, seeing it all like today of having a long traverse like yesterday where you only see around the next bend.
It wasn't as steep as yesterday, now was it as cold. Eventually I made it to the top and was rewarded with a spectacular view of Everest! Unfortunately my little camera didn't do it justice. It is huge and magnificent and amazing. As we headed down, at almost every switchback we has a different view, so I stopped and took a lot of pictures
We did not cycle past many settlements or people working in the fields today so no children running out to the road shouting "Hello, Hello" like we've had for the past several days. No matter how tired we are from cycling we always look up, wave and shout back "Hello" to all the children.
We are at a great campground, encircled by stone walls which is great because the wind has really picked up, and there are a few scrubby trees to provide some shade. While the sun is up it's very hot, but once it goes down around 7:30 pm it gets quite cool...cool enough to wear a down jacket to dinner.
Tomorrow we will see how close we can get to basecamp. Have a great day everyone!
the summit
Mount Everest in the background
switchbacks
switchbacks
A fast descent from camp takes us through a checkpoint and to the turn-off for the highlight of the tour: Everest! The early morning sun softens the rugged appearance of the landscape bathing the snow-dusted mountains around us in light. The terrain changes abruptly as we leave the main road towards Everest and the switchback-climb to the top of the Pang La (5205m) is slow going. On a clear day you will enjoy stunning views of the Himalayas at the top of the pass, with Everest directly in front of you. Another fast descent of endless hairpin bends takes us through settlements where local people group together in the fields drinking Yak tea and making bricks. We drop further onto an almost desert-like valley floor surrounded by rugged mountains cycling on to our campsite for the night.
Maximum Altitude: 5,205m
Sleeping Altitude: 4213m
Distance: 80km
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Monday, May 20, 2019
May 20 - Day 16: Base of Gyatso La to Shregar
What a fabulous day!!!! For a difficult day it actually wasn't too bad. 25 km uphill to the highest pass on this trip...and then still a long ways to the hotel. Yes, you read that right. We were supposed to be camping but Ox surprised us with the treat of a hotel. The boys will still be cooking dinner and breakfast for us...they are much better cooks than what we get in the restaurants.
We were warned that it would be a cold day...and it certainly was. Last night was warm, but once we got up I needed my down coat. I left right after breakfast, about a 15-20 minute head start on everyone else. The mornings are so peaceful, and when I'm alone I can get the feeling that I'm no part of a group and it's such a great feeling.
The first person overtook me about 5.5 km. By the time I got to the tea break at the 10km mark everyone had either arrived before me or shortly after me. Except Carla who decided to spend the rest of the climb in the van.
The terrain has changed again. The pass was through a canyon with rocky hills rather than the smooth hills we have seen up till now. It took me just under 5 hours to cycle 25 km...a long time for sure, but the wind kicked up after the 10 km stop, and the headwind just kept getting stronger and colder the higher we went. A bit of snow near the top...but Ox said look to your right, there's Shishapagma!!! It is the shortest of the 8000 m peaks, #14. I got emotional as this was a peak that at one time I had my eyes on.
We had a very cold quick decent to the lunch spot, a building where we ate inside out of the wind. After lunch the next break would be 25 km away. Some nice downhill, but also some uphill. We rode as a group of four and then Ox joined us and we were a group of five, everyone taking their turn at the front to break the wind for the others.
The tea stop was at the Qomolangma view point, our first view of Everest. Qomolangma is the Tibetan name for Everest, and its Nepalese name is Sagarmatha. I couldn't help but get emotional, this is why I came, and there it was, just the tip peaking out behind the hills, not long after we arrived the clouds covered it up, but I managed to get a photo. Apparently tomorrow we will have two more opportunities to see Everest, and then the day after tomorrow we will be at basecamp. Exciting times! I will do my best for photos. Hope you are enjoying the long weekend and that you had a chance to do something fun! :)
The day starts with a 25km climb on sealed
roads to the highest pass - the Gyatso La (5,253m). You will be rewarded with
stunning views of the snow-capped mountains either side of the pass and the
offer of a cup of Yak tea from the solitary tent alongside the fluttering
prayer flags. We drop down 10km, out of the wind, to our lunch stop. The
gradual descent takes through small villages and past Stupas down to the Lolo
River.
Accommodation: Hotel
Maximum Altitude: 5,253m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,408m
Distance: 65.7km
We were warned that it would be a cold day...and it certainly was. Last night was warm, but once we got up I needed my down coat. I left right after breakfast, about a 15-20 minute head start on everyone else. The mornings are so peaceful, and when I'm alone I can get the feeling that I'm no part of a group and it's such a great feeling.
The first person overtook me about 5.5 km. By the time I got to the tea break at the 10km mark everyone had either arrived before me or shortly after me. Except Carla who decided to spend the rest of the climb in the van.
The terrain has changed again. The pass was through a canyon with rocky hills rather than the smooth hills we have seen up till now. It took me just under 5 hours to cycle 25 km...a long time for sure, but the wind kicked up after the 10 km stop, and the headwind just kept getting stronger and colder the higher we went. A bit of snow near the top...but Ox said look to your right, there's Shishapagma!!! It is the shortest of the 8000 m peaks, #14. I got emotional as this was a peak that at one time I had my eyes on.
 |
| Summit. Note all the prayer flags. |
 |
| Downhill |
 |
| Over my left shoulder back in the haze is Mt. Everest |
Maximum Altitude: 5,253m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,408m
Distance: 65.7km
Sunday, May 19, 2019
May 19 - Day 15: Base of the Tso La pass to Base of Gyatso La
Today was a great day!!! It helped that it was a shorter and easier day. Breakfast was a bit delayed this morning because the cook slept in! After breakfast we did a group ride for the first 10km to the base of the pass. The pass itself was short - only 6km. My speed was mostly 5-6km/h for the way up...so that was good. This is the first time in five days that everyone was cycling so that was good.
At the top of the pass, the Chinese tourists were quite interested in us and our bikes. They took a lot of photos of us, and photos of themselves with us. Two ladies took my bike and posed with it. I thought that it was a bit forward of them to just take my bike and pretend to ride it...without even asking....they just took it. Strange.
We had a steep downhill but there was so much traffic....about 30 cars passed me and then would put on their brakes because at the head of the line was a big truck holding everyone up. We all made it down safely...and then it was lunch. Soup, hot chicken pasta and fried spinach. Very nourishing meal. I keep trying to ask for half portions but I don't always get it...so I went directly to the guy dishing it up...but he was very reluctant to remove any food from my plate!!!
20kms later and we arrived at our campsite...no trees because we are so high up, but green grass. There were several children so I pulled out the small balls that I had purchased and brought from home and many in the group took turns playing catch with them.
Since we arrived at camp early, it was still warm and not too windy, we all got showers! So much better than the baby wipes I've been using when we are camping.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 4,533m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,145m
Distance: 64.5km
At the top of the pass, the Chinese tourists were quite interested in us and our bikes. They took a lot of photos of us, and photos of themselves with us. Two ladies took my bike and posed with it. I thought that it was a bit forward of them to just take my bike and pretend to ride it...without even asking....they just took it. Strange.
 |
| Top of the pass |
 |
| The sign says Dixie band but we think Abba |
 |
| 5000 km from somewhere??? |
20kms later and we arrived at our campsite...no trees because we are so high up, but green grass. There were several children so I pulled out the small balls that I had purchased and brought from home and many in the group took turns playing catch with them.
 |
| Playing with the kids |
I had such a good day! I'm trying not to look ahead to tomorrow which I kno will be a bit of a suffer-fest. But that's tomorrow, and as Ox says "tomorrow never comes"!!!!
A steady 8km climb takes us to the Tso La pass (4,580m), followed by a fast downhill descent of 425m over 29 km, and a flat stretch into Lhatse. Lhatse is reminiscent of a Wild West frontier town; children here are both friendly and inquisitive and not afraid to interact with us strangely dressed cyclists! We head out of Lhatse and into the Chusar Chu valley, where we camp at a very picturesque spot along the riverside.
A steady 8km climb takes us to the Tso La pass (4,580m), followed by a fast downhill descent of 425m over 29 km, and a flat stretch into Lhatse. Lhatse is reminiscent of a Wild West frontier town; children here are both friendly and inquisitive and not afraid to interact with us strangely dressed cyclists! We head out of Lhatse and into the Chusar Chu valley, where we camp at a very picturesque spot along the riverside.
Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 4,533m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,145m
Distance: 64.5km
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