Cycling Across The Tibetan Plateau
Spring 2019

Where Lucille has been for the past 24 hours.

Friday, June 28, 2019

Thursday, May 30, 2019

May 30 - Day 26: Kathmandu - Home

Spending one more day in Kathmandu before I catch my flight home.   The rest flew out today except me and Bernie, a 67 year old farmer from New Zealand.  Just have to get my bike boxed up and I'm ready to fly home.



Wednesday, May 29, 2019

May 29 - Day 25 Kalikastahn to Kathmandu

Our last day of cycling...where did the time go?  Seems like just yesterday I was sitting in my tent, looking over the itinerary thinking we still had 12 cycling days left and wondering how I was going to do it.  And today we are all done.  Ox has been running this trip for 12 years, 60+ trips, and I'm the first woman to complete the entire trip!!!!

Today was particularly difficult because for  most of the day it was 42C!  Very hot and that was during the entire climb.  There were a few tears shed, and a few cuss words used, but I got it done.   It helped that the boys never complained about how slow I was, and today the youngest member of the team, American David came back and cycled a few km with me, encouraging me and telling me that he was not going to let me ride in the van....just the boost that I needed at the time.

When we got to the top there was a bit of rain to cool us off, and make the steep descent very treacherous, but everyone made it down in one piece...the next obstacle was navigating the traffic in Kathmandu without losing anyone which is not easy feat when there really aren't any traffic laws.  Motorcycles and scooters crowd around the vehicles and funnel ahead so we did the same thing.  It was crazy traffic but once again we made it with the team and bicycles intact!!!

We had a great farewell dinner and tomorrow starting at 0600 everyone will depart except for me and Bernie...we are both staying one extra day.  Not sure what I'll do yet...but I will find something to keep us entertained.


Today begins with a steep descent of just under 1,000m over a distance of 15km. We continue to follow the Trishuli river downhill for a further 17 km before challenging a final monster climb of over 1,000m 34km, then its downhill for the final 22km into Kathmandu. Tonight, we will gather together to celebrate the end of our epic journey. In the evening we get together for that all important and well-deserved celebratory meal!





Accommodation: Hotel
Maximum Altitude:   2,205m
Sleeping Altitude:    1,314m
Distance:          76km

Tuesday, May 28, 2019

May 28 - Day 24: Rasuwa Ghadhi to Kalikasthan

Today started early, mostly because the time change we were all awake at 0400.  It felt much too early after the BBQ party last night.

Today was a very warm day, now that we are at a lower elevation.
Things are so different in Nepal...it feels  more chaotic and busy and crazy.  Some of the homes are just corrugated metal for walls and roofs while some homes are actual brick.

The plateau of Tibet is gone, and we are in the hills of Nepal where we climb up to the ridge on very steep roads then once we are at the top, it's a steep downhill to the river to cross the bridge then back up to the ridge...all on very rough gravel roads that are very narrow.  This means that there is constant honking of horns, and twice I came off the bike because I thought that the bus coming towards me was going to hit me.

We saw many children that where very excited to shout "hello" to us.  A few children even ran beside us...trying to race me!!!  One child ran almost 500m uphill...in sandals!  Quite impressive.

A long, tough day, but fun too with great scenery.  No photos again today due to the slow wifi but will try to post them tomorrow morning once I'm back in Kathmandu.  There was a bombing in Kathmandu yesterday, and now there is a strike causing the entire city to come to a stand still.  Things should be back in order for us to get to the airport and fly home.

Have a good day everyone!!






From Rasuwa Garhi we we cycle the Pasang Lhamu Highway alongside the along the Trishuli River beginning on narrow road bordering the Langtang National Park. We enjoy a scenery of waterfalls, river, gorges and forest; small houses cling to the steep mountain sides. We begin our ride with a pleasant 14km gentle descent to the foot of Syapru Besi village a popular start point for people trekking in the Langtang valley.  From here we climb on winding road to Dhunche village 2/3 of the way up where we stop for lunch. Look out for views through the clouds of Langtang Lirung peak (7246m).




Accommodation: Guest House (B,L,D)
Maximum Altitude:   2205m
Sleeping Altitude:    1075m
Distance:                 52 km

Monday, May 27, 2019

May 27 - Day 23: Gyirong to Rasuwa Ghadhi

Today was a fabulous day.  Our last day in tibet was all downhill!!!  The first 30 km were through a canyon just as the sun was coming up.  It was fast and cold but fun and scenic.  After the tea stop we kept on going.

Hill with trees to the top, white clad mountains in the background, dandelions on the roadside, a glacier fed river rushing beside us.  So much like the Rockies that I could have been home.  Until I looked up and saw a monastery high up on the hill.  Ginsing said it was originally a cave built in the 13th century.  Eventually they built a building and a walk way to get up there.  Currently there are 6-7 residential  monks living there.

The border crossing was interesting.  We have a van with our day packs and other gear and a big truck with the tents, personal, dining and cooking tents along with all the food and more gear.  Everything had to be unloaded from both vehicles and brought into the Chinese border crossing building - a huge air conditioned building.  Then everything had to be carried across to the Nepalese border...now a dirt road and a small shack with two windows, with a piece of paper taped to each window one saying in Nepal and the other said out Nepal!

Now we are sitting down to a Nepalese style BBQ, pork pieces over an open fire and rum to wash it down!  Although we still have two more days of riding, today feels like a celebration.


Today's route begins with 42km on undulating road; we then drop over 200m for the next 50km as we follow the Girong Zangbo river, to reach Mangmu. We continue on for 8km to the border to cross the Friendship bridge bidding Tibet farewell. The border point between the two countries sits in a valley of approximately 300m.  On the Nepalese side is the Rasuwa Fort, the site of a three-day battle during the second campaign of Sino-Nepalese War in 1792. The fort was constructed on the site in 1855 when Nepal invaded Qing-ruled Tibet in the Nepalese-Tibetan War. We stay tonight at Rasuwa Ghadhi.





Accommodation: Guest House
Maximum Altitude: 4,093m
Sleeping Altitude: 2,046m
Distance: 92km

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Sunday, May 26, 2019

May 26 - Day 22: Paiku Tso Lake to Gyirong

Another good day of cycling...well I can say that now that it's done.  Two 500 m passes today...the first was a long traverse and the second was switchbacks so we saw the entire climb from the bottom.

The entire day was cold, especially the second decent, my hands and feet got very cold and I stopped a few times to warm up.  Going down was slow as it was switchbacks and the pavement was broken in many places.  Holes deep enough to throw me off my bike if I hit them wrong going to quickly.

Yesterday we had the option to stay in a tea house or in our tents.  As a result we had the dining area of the tea house where the owner started a fire for us after we arrived because it was cold.  Just as we started to eat, two sheep herders came in, both men approximately 25 years old.  They both had long hair which was braided and wrapped in a colourful cloth.  They also wore a turquoise earring which is traditional for Tibetan men.

Through our Tibetan guide we were able to talk to them.  Their meal was ramen noodles...the packages that you just add water to and stir, and several cans of coke.  We had pizza for supper so we gve them a piece.  The one liked it and the other one didn't.  Too many flavours he said.

We were all huddled in the tea house and they were getting ready to go back out to spend the night.  They did not have a tent, all they had was a blanket to either sleep on or cover themselves with if it's cold.  Here we are at the end of May and it's very cold except for the few sunny hours in the middle of the day.  They are very hardy for sure...I have no idea how many days in a row they will spend outside before getting back to their homes, potentially all summer long.

Not long before there were eight young nuns who were walking around the lake because it's considered a sacred lake.  They stopped in for a pitcher of hot milk, and then continued their journey in the cold, windy night.  We saw a few of them this morning, walking, as we cycled by.  They will do this circuit once and I think it will take them several days to get around as there are likely many prayer stops.  A dedicated life for sure.

So now that my day is done, I'm sitting in my warm tent, the sun is shining and I'm getting ready for a shower.  I'm thinking about the young nuns on their pilgrimage and I'm thinking of all the sheep and goat and yak herders that we have seen throughout our travels as well as the women and men labouring on various construction projects.  I hope that I can remember them the next time I'm complaining about my trivial problems.

Shishapagma
Lake
Lake

At first sumit with Ox
Summit
Heading away from the lake, today is the biggest challenge of the tour so far! We cycle 2 monster passes the first at 5,000m, the second 5,253m. The rest of the cycling is downhill to reach Gyirong. This region of Tibet is known as the back garden of the Himalayas.




Accommodation: Camping
Maximum Altitude: 5,253m
Sleeping Altitude: 4,093m
Distance: 53km