July 31 - Day 86 - St Peter’s -110 km

View from the campground

A couple from the Netherlands, touring Canada for two years….they’ve just started.  Only been in the maritimes and find Canada huge!  Wait till they get to Ontario.  Not sure where they plan on going with this monstrosity!!!!  Maybe some off roaming planned 😀

Confederation trail.  A decommissioned rail way bed.  Flat!!!!

Hello everyone….well this turned out to be a much longer/harder day than I thought or what it looks like on paper….but it’s done.  I did manage to squeeze in a few extra hills - training I guess!!!!  😂😂😵‍💫

I woke up early this morning to the sound of waves….yeah the tide must be up.  Last night when I arrived in the campground, it was low tide….and my neighbours said I could walk out 100+ meters, and the water would remain at my knees, and that it was warm.  Due to my late arrival, it was dark by the time I was set up.  The sun sets at 9pm and it’s dark within 15 minutes.  So this morning when I heard the waves, I realized the water was up.  It was receding….but I did manage to walk in the water for a while and get some nice pictures.  We had a thunderstorm last night…so this morning my fly was soaked, and once again I put it away wet.  

I got away late and stopped for a good sit down breakfast.  I figured since I only had 100km to do today, that I had lots of time.  Well…I wasn’t counting on all the hills.  I knew there were some hills, and that I should get onto the Confederation train which is an old rail trail, so it should be flat.  But the hills to get to the trail were significant.  Tall, steep and with no shoulders and lots of fast moving traffic.  I did my best to stay close to the white line, but several times I ended up on the sandy shoulder, and it was too steep to get back onto the bike, so four times I ended up pushing my bike part way up the hills.  Thankfully it was cooler today than the past few days….so I was able to stay comfortable.  

I kept stopping to check my map…trying to get onto the trail.  I thought there might be a sign on the road, but nope.  My map also showed a parking lot, but that wasn’t apparent either, so I missed the turn by about 1 km….or two big hills!  Turned around and found the trail…..nice and flat.  This was the only way I was going to make any distance today, but unfortunately there weren’t any views.  I love looking at the houses….and I saw a lot on the first 25 km, but after that it was trees and gravel road.  

I had planned to visiting Charlottetown….and was planning to eat here, but when I got off the trail, I realized that I wasn’t going to have any time to see the town if I wanted to make the campground before dark. So turned around and got back onto the trail. 

I was realizing that if I was going to get any food, I was going to get off the trail and go into a town.  I tried that with google, but no food….back onto the trail. About another 10 km….there was a sign for a country market.  Ok….off I went again.  I picked up some milk, cheese, buns and cookies.  I headed to picnic tables outside, at the far end of the parking lot….that's when I saw the food truck!  So another burger and fries.  Filling.  Back to the trail….and about another hour later I drank the milk and ate the cookies.  Now I was full 😀😀😀

I finally made it to the campground by 8pm.   I showered, changed and set up camp before 9.  

The plan tomorrow is to cycle to Souris…35km and take the ferry north to the îles de la Madeleine.  These are owned by Québec.  I’m quite excited to go there.  

July 39 - Day 85 - Cumberland Cove PEI - 100 km

Road to the campsite

Field.   Love the red soil, with green vegetation

Welcome to PEI

Dinner, seafood chowder.  

View of the confederation bridge

Lunch spot

Lunch

Well, this was another fantastic day!!!!  I really enjoyed the day….well the bridge crossing was a bit of a cluster….but I made it across…. I seem to have issues with bridges 😂😂😂.  

The day started off slowly…I was up at 0600, but a 45 min wait at Tim’s….then I just wasn’t in a rush anymore.  A short day to the ferry, then staying not too far on the other side, that means I can relax a bit.  

I finally had everything packed up, and one block from the campground I met a lady pushing her bike.  As we crossed the road from opposite directions, she asked me if I knew where to find a bike shop.  I replied that I wasn’t from here….and I could have left it like that and continued on my way, but I stopped to ask what she needed.  She fell off her bike yesterday, and now the handle bars are out of alignment, and her one lever is out of alignment as well.  Then I spotted her hand…swollen and bruised.  So I checked her out….she’ll be ok…just sore for a bit.  I pulled out my multi tool and fixed up her bike so she can at least ride it to get her vehicle that’s in the shop.  So glad I could help her out, as the nearest bike shop was 2 km away.  A long way to push a bike with a swollen and bruised hand and ribs.  We had a lovely visit, then I went on my way.  

I had hoped to visit Parlee Beach yesterday, but it was too late, so I planned for this morning.  Bonus…it was on my way out of town.  It’s a spectacular beach… .deep sand….and it’s huge.  The beach already had so many people there, that I didn’t bother to take a photo.

I headed out of town towards PEI managing to mostly stay on country roads instead of the highway for most of it.  Around 1pm I passed a farmhouse that said country market…so I went in.  A nice little shop with so many good things in there.  I told the shop lady that I wasn’t hungry and what did she have.  Well….i could make myself a sub, or I could buy a lunch box.  She invited me into the back prep area to show me what was going inside the box….well it was perfect!  So fresh and yummy! 

After I was done eating, the shop lady came out, she’s from Sangudo, just moved here 3 years ago and loves the lifestyle.  Her daughter and family moved as well, they are all living a relaxed lifestyle.  I’ve been thinking a lot about my retirement, and if it was the right thing to do, and when I meet people like her, I’m reminded that we just have one life….do I want to spend it working or do I want to spend it in a more relaxing way?  So many people that I’ve met in the campgrounds are also enjoying a simpler life.  Travelling, meeting people, seeing new sights, revisiting familiar sights.  Enjoying the simplicity of life well lived.  

I wasn’t far from the bridge and the crossing….16 k to go.  I had checked the website, and knew that bikes and pedestrians are not allowed on the bridge, not because there isn’t enough room….which really, there isn’t enough room, but because of the wind and the trucks.  The high walls help to create a vortex, and bikes would either get sucked into the truck, or lifted and thrown in ver the wall.  Very dangerous.  And the bridge is 13 km long.  So there’s a shuttle service….but not a great description on their website.  Now that I’ve been across, and know how to do it….its great, but I struggled.  

I wasn’t sure where this area was, so I found myself on the highway, with the bridge in sight, and knew this was wrong as the shuttle area is 5 km from the bridge.  Ok….turn around on a busy 4 lane highway 😳😵‍💫. Got it done safely.  Go to the area that said it was for oversized and dangerous goods.  Huge empty parking lot, with a building that looked locked.  No signs anywhere….empty.  Phone booth, but no phone to call the shuttle, and no phone number for the shuttle provided on the website.  So I called Lorraine. We both checked the website.  This place is only 2.5 km from the bridge.  Should I head back on highway 12?  I had come from the country road 955.  Maybe it’s on highway 12?  So I phoned and just got information, couldn’t talk to a real person.  It said to take exit 47. Can’t find that exit on google maps.  So Lorraine finds a different number, one to reserve for groups.  Well, I was in the right place.  Just had to go inside….that's where all the signs were with details of what to do! Ok….step one, he’s on his way….great. He tells me I have to remove all my bags….what?  

He arrives, and he’s grumpy. The bike rack supports my bike from the cross tube. Everything must come off….i question him again….then I realize that if something falls off the bike, we are not stopping to retrieve it.  And just today he found a brand new front wheel that fell off a bike….did I want it?  He asked.  Well, no as I don’t have any way to transport it.  🤨

So bags removed, and I put them in the back seat of the truck where he had opened the door.  We tried to place the bike on the rack, but my water bottle holders are in the way.  They have to come off.  All I have is my multi tool, where the bit isn’t long enough.  I can move the screw 1/8 of a turn before I need to reposition the tool.  I remove the one holder - 2 screws, and the first screw on the second holder, but the second screw I strip before I can get it off.  Ughhh!  Ok….we try again to place it on the bike rack….nope.  Well, he says…we will just have to put it inside.  He opens up the other side door, and sees all my bags.  Why did you put them here, I said to put them in the front.  What?  It’s an electric truck….didn't I know, and there’s no engine, so the trunk is in the front, under the hood, that’s where the stuff goes….and he told me….why didn’t I listen to him…..he’s getting short with me.  I responded….hey, I’m from Alberta, we don’t have electric trucks there, our engines are in the front, why would I even dream of that possibility.  Ok….he backs off!  As I roll my eyes at him!!! 😂😂😂

I move all my bags, and bits and pieces…then he tells me about these systems where a few clicks and the bags are all off….yeah yeah yeah….i know all about those systems.  Then he tells me that cycling across Canada is no big deal….he sees 100 cyclists a week that have done that journey. Well, the estimate is about 40 per year….but what I really wanted to say was….well how many of those have also summited Everest!!!  Ughhh!  What a pompous….guy.  Then he said he would never do it solo….it wasn’t safe.  So now he’s telling me what it should be doing….when I have 11days left. I just couldn’t wait to get out of his vehicle.  But in the end he pointed out the necessities…info centre, ice cream shop,  subway and liquor store.  So maybe he’s not all bad!!!  

At the camping area when I could finally relax, I met a nice couple from Rimouski that have travelled all the way to BC.  They enjoyed the prairies, the mountains, Banff, Jasper etc. So the day was book ended with nice people!!!  

July 29 - Day 84 - Shediac NB - 116km

Dinner tonight at the sandbar restaurant, seafood chowder, salad and a beer 😀

The flag on the right is the Acadian flag

Lobster statue

Well….what an awesome day I had.  I had no expectations for the day….and it turned out to be wonderful.  

I have been feeling tired the past few days….likely the heat and the time change as I’m having trouble getting to sleep then trouble getting up.  Yesterday I stopped when I could to cool down, and decided that I would do the same thing today.  Last night when I looked at my tires, I noticed a thumbtack imbedded in my front tire….oh no!  I pulled it out….and no noise.  Hummm. It was only in part way…and my tires are Kevlar reinforced.  Fingers crossed….well today went well….knock on wood!  Hopefully it will just be ok.  

I really didn’t have anything for breakfast…a couple of cookies.  I didn’t want to take the time to make oatmeal as I felt I was already late leaving trying to beat the heat.  No services for 35km…..ok, I can do this.  I drank one of my bottles of water and off I went.  The cycling was fantastic….it felt either flat or downhill most of the day.  There was as much uphill as downhill, but it just felt easy….thus I made good time.  A small gas station was my first stop….nothing much to eat there, so a muffin and juice that I ate outside.  

Another 10 km and there was a sandwich place.  I sat inside and had a clubhouse and more fluids and cooled off.  It was here that I really tried hard to follow conversations that I overheard….but it was almost impossible.  I could only pick out a few words here and there.  This is now Acadian French - from what I can tell a mixture of French, English, English words made to sound French, and some words I’ve never heard before in an accent that isn’t familiar to me…and they speak quickly so I really can’t follow.  They also are flying the Acadian Flag, red white and blue striped like the French flag, but they have a gold star on the blue stripe.  

So, I stopped three more times to cool off….even soaking my shirt in the lake once and in the gas station bathroom once, plus pouring water on myself a few times.  And even with all of that, and drinking lots I still was getting a headache.  Part way through the day I received a photo from Jon of the most amazing looking seafood chowder….well I have to go there….less than 3 km from my campsite!!! Then Lorraine texted to say that Shediac is the lobster capital of the world!!! Well… .this made my day. 

As I entered the town, there was a huge statue of a lobster….photo time!!!  A thunderstorm was approaching quickly….so I cycled as quickly as I could to the campground. I got the tent up just as the rain started.   Ok….quickly organize, shower, laundry then get to dinner before they close.  Only 3 km away…but laundry wasn’t done until 8:15, and they close at 9.  I called all three taxi companies, but no one was answering….ok, cycling I guess.  The rain stopped, but there were huge puddles on the road.  I got to the restaurant in time for the best seafood chowder ever….probably 1million calories, but it didn’t matter!  So delish I almost licked the bowl 😂😂😂

I made it back in the dark…. No worries as I have both front and rear lights, I was wearing a reflective jacket, and there were street lights.  I also had a headlight if required.  I did need to put in the new batteries….at least now I’m not carrying 4 batteries just in case…they are in the headlight!

Tomorrow is PEI!!!  I’m excited….not sure how long I will stay on the island, so stay tuned!!!

July 28 - Day 83 - Miramichi 102km

My path for a bit today 

Campground this morning 

Campground 

 Another good day…easier than yesterday as there were fewer hills, and I had a tail wind today.  Plus I stopped to eat and drink when I could.  

I was inland all day, so my only views were trees…. feels like I was back in Ontario.  I didn’t notice any farm land here, yet on the other side of the Baie de Chaleurs, on the Québec side, I did see farmland.  The fields were small, but they were growing wheat, and some hayfields.  

I did a few extra km today, when I realized I had lost my gloves…. I had set them down while I put on my helmet, then just cycled away!  Glad I remembered after only a few km….these are my third pair this trip!!!!  

I met a young man who is also bike packing.  He lives on Les îles de la Madeleine….I’m not sure when he left…but it can’t be that long ago.  He’s finding it very difficult and is having a hard time.  He asked about me…and I felt bad telling him….he was amazed.  Now he feels like he hasn’t accomplished much.  His plan is to go to point de la croix, where I met up with my friends two nights ago, then head up inland about 100km.  He said he would think of me when it gets difficult.  Hope it gets easier for him…he had a head wind today, so that doesn’t help.  The forecast a few hours ago was for a north wind tomorrow….now it’s a SW….so headwind again for me….and temps about the same 😳🙁.  I’ll have to try harder for an early start.  

Just before getting to the town of Miramichi , I had to cross over a massive bridge…just as I headed up, my chain came off, and then it was so steep, and the sidewalk so narrow that I couldn’t get back onto my bike….probably best…. I pushed my bike all the way.  There was barely enough room for me and my bike on the sidewalk.  Apparently there’s a plan to redo the bridge and make it Four lanes, that will be a major undertaking.  

Ok…bed for me…I’m now 3 hours ahead of Mountain time, and I’m having trouble adjusting.  Only one more time zone 😀😀😀

July 27 - Day 82 - Bathurst 119km

Friends Jarka and Patrick.  We spent a few days together in Northern Ontario.  Last saw each other in the bike shop in Saul St Marie.  Nice to spend the evening together and catch up.  They brought wine and Brie….yummy.  

Arriving in the campground last night

An art installation in Campbellton

Au revoir le Québec…..à la prochaine 

I had a tourtière for breakfast.  😀

Hello everyone….another province done.  I entered New Brunswick this morning and another time change, I’m now 3 hours ahead of Alberta time.  

I had a slow start to the day….slept in, then I stopped for a good breakfast before getting too far.  It was a hot day….30C which isn’t really all that hot, but when you’re out in the sun all day, without much shade…it’s hot.  Last night I slept in my thermal underwear because it was so cold….and today - hot!!  

It was also really windy….it was 25 gusting to 43…mostly cross wind, but a bit of headwind, and a short bit of tailwind.  Because I was following the coast line, and curving a lot, that changed how the wind was hitting me.  

I stopped at Tim’s for some iced drinks, but within 30 min, the ice had melted and they were warm.  I stopped at two stores for more water and drinks….i think I drank about 3L today which is a huge amount for me, and another 1.5L in the campground tonight.  With the time change I got here around 7:30pm, and the sun sets at 9….so I quickly drank some water, set up camp and had a shower before it got dark,  

Tomorrow it should be a bit cooler, and I will be inland all day.  

July 26 - Day 81 - Point de la Croix 101 km

Seeing the hills from the other side

In the far distance is New Brunswick 😀

This was my view as I headed out of the campground….debating if I should take the time to go down and see the water 

This was the view at the end of the campground road!!!!  The walls are red….very red.  Such a contrast with the green trees on the top and the dark blue water.  

The other side….the rock is just as red…but with the shadows of the bright sun, it looks muted.  

A little waterfall.  This shows the redness of the rock a bit better 

These are the enhanced photos…show the redness of the rock a bit better

Enhanced 

Photos aren’t loading tonight as the service here isn’t great….I’ll do it tomorrow….check back as they are really spectacular….I know I say that every day…but its especially true today 😀😀😀

My last day in Québec….and I had fabulous views.  I felt tired after yesterday’s long ride, and the headwind didn’t help….but what I really needed was more food.  Once I ate a cheeseburger my energy came back and I was able to finish the ride.  

This morning I almost made a mistake…the mistake of not looking around.  I got to the campground late, and it was dark by the time I had everything done.  This morning as I was heading out I noticed the water….it wasn’t a great view, but figured I should go investigate….well what I saw was amazing!!!  Just when I thought I had seen ….well everything, I was shown a completely different view.  Talk red walls with green on top, and the blue Baie de Chaleurs.  Spectacular.  

The riding was ok today…one of the towns is celebrating 150 years….so tents and balloons etc!  Fun.  I didn’t have a lot of views of the water today….so that makes this morning’s view so much better!  

Tomorrow New Brunswick….and I think it will only be about 3 maybe 4 days before I’m on PEI.  It’s going fast!!!!  Thanks everyone for the encouraging texts this morning!  That made my day….and all the ones in French 😀. Those were special!!  

July 25 - Day 80 - Caplan 144km 963m

Path by the water…only lasted 2 km

In the town of Paspébiac I saw about 10 bikes…all painted up and decorated with flowers, on almost every street corner 

This says 132 West bound.  Nope…not headed home yet!  

 Wow….what a day.  I set out a big objective and met it.  9 hours in the saddle!  Sure glad to be off, but actually the body is holding up surprisingly well.  Must be because I’m going so slowly that I’m not stressing it.  

I was off around 0630, and was rewarded with some great views of Percé rock.  It drizzled for about 3 hours…not getting very wet….then heavy rain for 2 hrs, light rain for an hour….then the sun came out for the final few hours.  The top layers dried out nicely, but the inner layer stayed wet.  My shoes have not dried out…but if it stays sunny, they should dry out tomorrow.  

Most of the day was a bit away from the water….usually houses or trees between the highway and the water.  The highway is super busy too….Friday afternoon.  This past week and next week is holiday for anyone in construction.  I guess they just shut everything down for two weeks….but that’s the reason so many people are on the roads and the campsites are all booked up.  

The body of water between Québec and NB is called Bay de Chaleurs - which means warm.  I wonder if the water is really warm…or maybe just a bit warmer than elsewhere.  I’ll have to check it out tomorrow.  

A few nice views today, but for the most part I kept my head down…and moved as fast as I could to get the day done in daylight hours.  I grabbed food from the gas station for dinner,   My camp is set up, I’ve eaten, showered and now doing laundry and it’s already 9pm!  Another late night with an early start tomorrow.  

The plan is to get to Campbellton NB tomorrow to meet up with Patrick and Jarka.  That’s just over the border.  Likely only three full days in NB until I get to PEI!  Only 2 weeks till I get to the ferry for NL.  The end is approaching fast now….and I still have lots of ground to cover.  If the weather holds and I don’t lose any days, I should have time to make it to the îles de la Madeleine.  That’s still my plan, and hopefully it works out.