We woke up to blue skies today, I was a little worried with all the rain last evening and night. I was cold enough last night to wear my down jacket until I went to bed and also this morning, but as soon as we started trekking I was down to one shirt and my vest.
Today was a difficult day for me....unsure exactly why since I felt so good yesterday. I kept waking up during the night, and finally gave up at 0300. I also started off quite fast as there were many groups out and I hate walking behind groups...so I would speed up to pass and then not really slow down as there was another group I had to pass. Finally Dhane took my pack away on the very long uphill, and despite my attempts would not return it to me!!!
It was supposed to be a short trek today from Namche Bazaar to Phortse - the home of Dawa and Yanzeen. Phortse is off the beaten track a bit - it's not on the usual path to Everest base camp so there aren't as many trekkers on the trail. The trail continues upwards from Namche for about three hours then we drop down into the valley to cross the river - Dudh Kosi which is fed from the melting glaciers of the high mountains. After this is the long uphill all the way to the town of Phortse. Since it is off the main trekking route to Everest base camp, it more resembles an authentic Sherpa village. There are a few lodges here, but not any shops selling the usual chocolate bars, Pringles, bottled water like we see in the towns lining the path to Everest. Many of the high altitude sherpas - the ones that go to the summit with clients are from the farming town of Phortse, others are from Kumjung just above Namche Bazaar and Pangboche.
When we arrived in Phortse I noticed that the women were outside tending to the animals and the crops since most of the men are on Everest. It must be lonely for them, and hard too as the men are gone March to set up base camp for the climbers, and April and May to climb. They are left to look after the homes, the children, the animals and the crops. Not an easy life that's for sure, but it does afford them more money than they would otherwise have.
Located in Phortse is the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) which provides Sherpas with top-notch mountaineering training. Their teachers are some of the world's most famous climbers—Conrad Anker, Pete Athans, Jon Krakauer, Jimmy Chin, Renan Ozturk, and Cory Richards. Since its first course of 34 students in 2003, more than 700 Sherpas have attended—and 26 are now qualified to teach. Dawa is now an assistant instructor. This school is fantastic because although the Sherpa strength cannot be matched, they lacked the knowledge of how to do technical climbing. How to fix ropes, with appropriate back ups and how to make decisions on the mountain. With this school more Nepalese are getting to the level of western guides. They practice with ice climbing in the local area in the winter so that they can apply those skills on Everest and other mountains in the spring.
Not long after we arrived in Phortse Yangzeen called Dawa, and were able to have a conversation. He has just retuned to base camp from camp two. He is feeling strong, and his client is doing very well also. We are now thinking of going directly to base camp, targeting April 27, so that I can hopefully meet up with Dawa. And then maybe returning via Cho La and Goyko. We will see how things go....if the acclimatization continues to go well, or if I need an extra rest day.
We are staying in the lodge tonight.....Yangzeen is taking good care of us.
5.7 km
3950M
Today was a difficult day for me....unsure exactly why since I felt so good yesterday. I kept waking up during the night, and finally gave up at 0300. I also started off quite fast as there were many groups out and I hate walking behind groups...so I would speed up to pass and then not really slow down as there was another group I had to pass. Finally Dhane took my pack away on the very long uphill, and despite my attempts would not return it to me!!!
If you look carefully, in the middle of the picture, the small triangle shaped mountain just peaking out is Everest. My first view this trip. I was so glad it was clear enough for this view.
It was supposed to be a short trek today from Namche Bazaar to Phortse - the home of Dawa and Yanzeen. Phortse is off the beaten track a bit - it's not on the usual path to Everest base camp so there aren't as many trekkers on the trail. The trail continues upwards from Namche for about three hours then we drop down into the valley to cross the river - Dudh Kosi which is fed from the melting glaciers of the high mountains. After this is the long uphill all the way to the town of Phortse. Since it is off the main trekking route to Everest base camp, it more resembles an authentic Sherpa village. There are a few lodges here, but not any shops selling the usual chocolate bars, Pringles, bottled water like we see in the towns lining the path to Everest. Many of the high altitude sherpas - the ones that go to the summit with clients are from the farming town of Phortse, others are from Kumjung just above Namche Bazaar and Pangboche.
When we arrived in Phortse I noticed that the women were outside tending to the animals and the crops since most of the men are on Everest. It must be lonely for them, and hard too as the men are gone March to set up base camp for the climbers, and April and May to climb. They are left to look after the homes, the children, the animals and the crops. Not an easy life that's for sure, but it does afford them more money than they would otherwise have.
Located in Phortse is the Khumbu Climbing Center (KCC) which provides Sherpas with top-notch mountaineering training. Their teachers are some of the world's most famous climbers—Conrad Anker, Pete Athans, Jon Krakauer, Jimmy Chin, Renan Ozturk, and Cory Richards. Since its first course of 34 students in 2003, more than 700 Sherpas have attended—and 26 are now qualified to teach. Dawa is now an assistant instructor. This school is fantastic because although the Sherpa strength cannot be matched, they lacked the knowledge of how to do technical climbing. How to fix ropes, with appropriate back ups and how to make decisions on the mountain. With this school more Nepalese are getting to the level of western guides. They practice with ice climbing in the local area in the winter so that they can apply those skills on Everest and other mountains in the spring.
Not long after we arrived in Phortse Yangzeen called Dawa, and were able to have a conversation. He has just retuned to base camp from camp two. He is feeling strong, and his client is doing very well also. We are now thinking of going directly to base camp, targeting April 27, so that I can hopefully meet up with Dawa. And then maybe returning via Cho La and Goyko. We will see how things go....if the acclimatization continues to go well, or if I need an extra rest day.
We are staying in the lodge tonight.....Yangzeen is taking good care of us.
5.7 km
3950M
2 comments:
Have an awesome time Lucille.
Beautifully written Lucille. I feel I am there with you.
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