Beowolf

We spent the night at Janet's, got up early 6am and headed off into the Ghost area to play. We decided on Beowolf, and it was a great decision. With the new bridge that was being put in the last time we were here, it cut down the hiking time.















We were a bit chilled waiting as we arrived right behind a party of three. Once we were up the first pitch, the sun was warming us up, and we had to strip down a bit.

















A great climbing day.

David Thompson

We got up early and headed out for some ice climbing. The weather was perfect and we had a great time.

This House of Sky

Janet came to pick us up and drove to the Ghost area where we decided to climb This House of Sky.

I just wasn't too sure about this, 12 pitches, 2 creek crossings and 1500' of elevation gain.

As it turned out I was up to it and as usual we had a fabulous day. Sunny skies, with barely a breath of wind and spending the day in the canyon was great. One team ahead of us turned around when one of their team broke through the ice getting on foot wet. Unlucky for him, but he clearly marked for us the area to avoid.

Domhnall and Janet free climbed and they set up a rope to belay me up for most of the pitches. At the end we continued to climb two other pitches.

Domhnall free climbed the first, setting up a belay for Janet and I, then Janet climbed the last pitch.


The three of us after a full day of climbing. Grins all around must mean that we all had a great time.

Snowline

I got up at 4am to pick up Domhnall, and we headed out to the Kaninaskis area for another day of ice climbing. Our destination was the Evan Thompson Creek area where we would decide on the climb once we arrived. There was one other vehicle in the parking lot when we got there. The lead was part ways up Moonbeam, so we set up to climb Snowline which is the line on the right.

It was thin at the bottom, and it was quite a while before Domhnall could place any protection. I felt uncomfortable at the bottom with all the ice falling from the other group. The second pitch was a cold shower, and at the top we were rewarded with a great view.



We quickly got down and headed to do Chantilly Falls. We were here earlier in the season, but it wasn't quite formed at that time. This time it was nice and fat. Domhnall climbed it in one pitch, only placing one ice screw. The ice was great but we were on a schedule so we got up and down as quickly as we could. Another spectacular day.

Elliot Left Hand

Climbing the first two pitches of Elliot left hand. I spent the night in the bivy bag outside while Domhnall slept in the truck. I had a great sleep, and was actually too warm which was good because I was unable to zip up the bivy bag. I just felt too enclosed. We slept in, and took our time in the morning.....so arrived at the site a bit late.

We missed the trail by 20 meters, so we bush whacked for 45 minutes to get to the icefall.

The icefall was spectacular and I had a great day here. We only had time to do the first two pitches as I had to be back in Edmonton for 7pm. The third pitch is the crux, but it will have to wait for another day.


On the way out we found the official trail. Someone has spent significant time cutting through the fallen logs to make a great path. I felt really good today, and the climbing is feeling better.

Two O'Clock Creek

I picked up Domhnall from work at 0730 and we headed out to the Nordeg area to do some climbing. We got to Two o'clock creek at 1030, and headed in. The approach is only about45 minutes on a good trail.....well it would have been good if we had found it. The climbing was good, but I was feeling a bit uncomfortable.

After we got to the top and rappelled down, Domhnall free climbed it. Pretty good for only having had a few hours of sleep on the drive down. We set up for the night at Preacher's Point, Domhnall in the truck while I tried out his bivy bag.

Balfor Waterfall Ice

After a leisurely breakfast of french toast with Jessica we started to head home. Domhnall was checking out possible ice climbs when we passed this one. We backtracked, and after a 30 minute access, we were at the base. Once again Domhnall climbed up and placed a top rope, then we had fun climbing up and down for several hours before driving back home.

Johnson's Canyon

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!

Domhnall and I drove to Field yesterday so that we could do a bit of climbing. It was snowing yesterday on the drive in, and continued to snow overnight so we were a bit concerned with the conditions. We got up early and tried to make a decision of where to go.

In the end we decided to drive to Johnson's Canyon where the risk of avalanche is very low. Domhnall climbed up, and set up a top rope. It wasn't too long after that 3 other climbers joined us.

Two more top ropes were set up, and we all had fun trying out different climbs. At the end of the day, I carried both packs and all the gear for a bit of a workout, and Domhnall gave me some tips on how to walk downhill, which is always my greatest challenge.

Tangle Falls

This is a nice and easy little climb that we decided to try on our way home. OK it is a bit out of the way, but the approach cannot be beat. Maximum 5 minutes, and that includes the time that it takes to put on the crampons.

It was a beautiful, sunny day and I practiced going up and then down climbing until we got tired and then we headed home.

We left early in the morning after checking the road reports. The roads were icy, but we left early and although we drove 80k/hr we still got to the climbing spot early enough. Thankfully it was a weekday, so we had the place to ourselves.

This was my third time to climb Chantilly Falls, but after the first pitch we decided the ice was too thin, so we headed down. Then Domhnall had me practice going down a steep slope walking forwards while hanging on to the rope in several different ways. Good practice for going down the Lhotse face.

Guinness Gully

January 17 - We went to Kananaskis and climbed Chantilly Falls. A nice easy climb, perfect for my second time out. A great place to learn more about ice climbing. We then drove out to Field to stay with friends.

January 18 - We slept in a bit, then leasurly packed our bags and headed off to climb Guinness Gully. It was -25C, and I had no idea how long this climb was going to take, I figured a few hours at best, well I was wrong.





















Domhnall got everything ready, and started up the first pitch. At least there wasn't any wind as it was really cold.




The second pitch went well, but I got tired on the third pitch, and just couldn't continue. So Domhnall lowered me down, and we rappelled down to the bottom where we had left our packs. We had only had a few snacks along the way for the entire day and no water, so we were almost out of energy. We were most of the way back home, long after dark when we ran into his friends who were heading out to look for us.
















January 19- We headed off to Bow summit for a day of skiing, but all we could manage was to skin up once, and ski down. We were still tired from our efforts from yesterday. Plus the snow wasn't all that great...so it was an easy decision to head back to Field to spend the day in front of the wood stove.