Day 30 - Haast 120 km, 750m elevation

 What an amazing day!!!!  I had so much fun today.  

We got up early, 0630 for an 0800 departure as it was going to be a long day.  The forecast was for it to be a nice day starting at 10am, and there really isn’t anything between Fox Glacier and Haast other than a campground, but no food.  We are really in a remote area.  

Breakfast at the hostel, clean up, pack the bikes….and I was off right around 0800.  I circled around town a few times until I figured out where to go!!!  I really am directionally challenged!  It was misty at the start…and it kept on increasing.  I was soaked through by the time I got to Bruce Bay.  There were lovely views….but with the rain I didn’t really want to take out my phone too much…and I secured it in one of my rear saddle bags.  But there was tea and scones at Bruce Bay!!!  Yippeee.  2 Chai tea latte and a scone hit the spot!  This was at about 45km.  

Finally at the 70km mark, the sun popped out!!!!  Double yippeeee.  I’m started to dry out….so much more comfortable.  The final 50km had several hills…and one huge one….220m over 3.5km!  Ok…. I can do this….at least it was sunny.  Half way up was the next photo checkpoint.  

Knight’s Point Lookout.  

In the 1950’s this scenic lookout served as the meeting point for two roads building crews one working from the east coast across Haast Pass and the other working along the west coast.  When officials from the then Ministry of Works journeyed down from Wellington hoping to name the meeting point after a high ranking ministry official, they found that it had already been christened’Knight’sPoint’ after the original surveyor’s dog!!!!  😂😂😂

I took some photos and FaceTimed with Ted to show him the view.  Then I continued up for another 100m and 1.5km.  At the end of the hill was a pullout and another fantastic view.  I was taking photos when all of a sudden a motor home pulled in and someone shouted ‘Lucille’!!!!  What????  One of our favourite transport physicians Katherine jumped out of the motor home and gave me a huge hug!!!! ❤️❤️❤️❤️😀  Someone from home!!!!  She didn’t really know that I was here in NZ, and she recognized me as they went past….they turned around and came to see me!!!  Nothing short of amazing!!!!  We had a great chat…I ate some of her chocolate- then Annabel came along…so she was brought in.  Katherine is touring with her children Eloise, Charlie and Sam, her brother and parents.  What luck that I was stopped, and that she wasn’t driving and noticed me.  This gave me the energy to finish up the final 25km into Haast as they are on their way Northbound.  

Tomorrow is another long day…with no stopping places for tea….so we loaded up at the grocery store….enough food for breakfast and lunch on the trail.  Forecast is for rain all day tomorrow, but we will not be camping again tomorrow night.  😀

Day 29 - weather day Fox Glacier

 Last night when we looked st today’s weather, we decided to take the bus here so that we can stay on track.  The forecast was for very strong winds, and heavier rain.  So we had a lazy morning, and when we looked outside at 0830….it wasn’t raining….darn.  What should we do?  Feels silly to take the bus when it isn’t raining.  Thankfully the downpour started just while we were discussing our options!  Great….back to plan A- take the bus.  

Since the bus wasn’t arriving until 1550, we had the day to rest and recharge.  Across the street was a nice cafe/bakery/grocery store with a nice big enclosed patio.  We had breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea there 😀😀😀

The scenery between Harihari and Fox glacier was really nice, even though we couldn’t see it he hills because of the low fog.  On a nice sunny day this area would be spectacular.  Not very far from here is Mount Cook, the tallest peak in NZ at 3724meters.  With this weather, it is unlikely that we will see it….but hopefully Ted and I will return to this area when he arrives.  The area receives up to 5 meters of rain annually!!!  Yikes 

With this rainfall there were many waterfalls along the way, the rivers are swift and swollen, and look ready to overflow their banks.  Tomorrow the rain is supposed to settle down a bit before getting worse again.  The issue for us right now is that there are not a lot of options for towns or food.  We can stop at a motel 35km away….but no food available.  The next town with food is Haast which is 120km away and 700m of gain.  There is also a campground about half way to Haast, but once again no food.  With only one semi ok rideable day, if I can’t make it to Haast, then I will be stuck in the rain for up to three days, and I’m not going to carry that much food.  Fingers crossed I can make Haast tomorrow which is the plan.  If I get caught out….then there is a bus option.  So that’s my backup plan.  😀😀. Wish me luck!!!  

Day 28 - Hairihari

 Today was a long cycling day….114km and 500m elevation gain.  

Forecast was for rain starting at 10am….so we got up at 0630, and were cycling by 0800….which is when the first raindrops started.  It started off light, then increased to a steady rain….all day!  I toyed with the idea of following the planned route today, which would have taken me off the coast inland to a cowboy town along the wilderness trail.  With the rain I decided to stay along the coast, on the highway instead of on the gravel trail.  The plan was the next town approx 40km away.  I arrived a bit after Annabel- soaked and hungry- it was about noon.  A bowl of soup and some tea to warm up did the trick.  We discussed, and our plan was to go to Ross - 30km away with the plan of continuing on to Harihari 44km past Ross.  

We both set off together, but Annabel followed the wilderness trail, and I stayed on the highway.  The highway was flatter and faster than the gravel trail, so I when I arrived first at Ross, I texted Annabel that I was continuing on to Harihari.  She arrived approximately 20 min after me, wandered into the hotel for something hot to drink, sat in front of a roaring fireplace to warm up….and contemplated stayed there for the night-but continued on as I was already 10km ahead.  

The 44km to Harihari were really difficult….lots of hills, but between the grade remained at 1-2%.  The rain increased, and so did the wind….in our faces.  It was a tough slog to get here….soaking wet and cold.  Unfortunately the hotel doesn’t have any heat….boy that roaring fire in Ross is looking good now!!!!  We should have stayed!!!

The forecast for tomorrow is rain all day, but heavier than today, and wind 10-20 with gusts from 45-55 km/hr!  Yikes.  Don’t think I can cycle in that, so the plan is to stay dry and take the bus.  We will see what tomorrow brings.  

Day 27 - Greymouth

 This was an awesome day….road was great, views amazing and temp was perfect.  

An early start this morning means that my fly is soaking wet from the dew.  It was a bit chilly this morning, but after breakfast and a cup of tea, I was sufficiently warmed up to get going.  I’m rolling much faster, since I pumped up my tires to the appropriate pressure.  The rear tire was quite low…making more resistance for me…..great training!!!! 😂😂😂

The entire day was on a quiet backroad with not a lot of traffic which is nice.  Janet who gave me a ride yesterday stopped to see if I wanted her to carry my bags.  I did consider it, but in the end decided to continue carrying my own bags since it was a fairly easy day, only about 450m elevation gain and 80km.  

The endpoint for today was Greymouth….right on the Tasman sea!  It’s a gorgeous little town….with a great view.  I headed off to the photo checkpoint - Greymouth Bar.  Greymouth, the west coast’s largest city, has one of three ports in the area, and for much of its history, fishing has been the driving economic force.  The turbulent waters at the sandbar just off the mouth of the Grey River, have capsized at least 45 boats and claimed several lives.  Today there were several surfers out enjoying the waves.  

I’m in a hostel room tonight, trying to decide what I’m going to do tomorrow 😀.  Rain is coming….just depends on how much it’s raining when I head out in the morning.  

Day 26 - Rest Day!!!! Reefton

 Today was the best….I had a rest day, but still managed to make it 80km…..how you may ask????  Well after yesterday I was contemplating a rest day today, but when I woke up this morning, I was determined to make it to Reefton.  I got dressed, packed my bike and went to retrieve my cheese from the kitchen fridge.  That’s where I met Janet, who said that her friend was doing the TA and that I should go over and chat with her.  After a short discussion an offer was made for me to catch a ride in the motor home to Reefton!!!!  Sold.  A rest day, but I still make it to my destination.  Fantastic.  

I had such a great ride and enjoyed the scenery, along with making to Reefton in time to enjoy the town, have some lunch and a little sit by the river.  It was perfect!  This town is really special, lots of nice little shops….i got lost for about an hour in the second hand book store!  Reefton was the first town in New Zealand to have electricity back in 1886.  It is also known for gold mining.  

Such a fun and relaxing day….just what I needed.  And I’ve made three new friends….and also met two cyclists going the other way so really 5!  

So now watching the tracker… I’m watching LizBiz - Elizabeth from Auckland who is doing really well.  Annabel who I’ve been with for several days now, JonBery who is Amanda….i caught a ride with her wife and friend this morning.  Gordon and Sharon…. I stayed with Sharon in Nelson.  Team Huish who I cycled with back in Cambridge who took a break and now are back….they check in on me daily.  And several others who are not being tracked, but checkin almost daily.  So much fun.  

To track everyone go to ta26.maprogress.com

Day 25 - Murchison

 Today was an 80km day with over 660m of elevation gain.  The day felt good….the first 40km was slightly uphill, with a few short hills, then the second half was mostly downhill.  The middle 15km was on a nice gravel road- and the rest was all pavement.  On the gravel I only saw a couple of vehicles….so I was making sure that I was watching where I was going and being extra careful.  

It’s a bit cool in the morning, but quickly warms up to low 20’s which feels super warm with the sun beating down.  

Tonight I’m in a campsite that has cabins….only $55NZ for the cabin….so nice to not have to pack up my tent in the morning.  Plus it’s a bit warmer when I wake up in the morning so I don’t procrastinate as long getting out of bed!!!  

The scenery remains spectacular….larger hills in the distance, shorter hills beside me, with cows, sheep and goats seen frequently, and a herd of deer.  Today I saw some sunflowers as well as hops being harvested.  I’ve seen several huge fields of hops in the past few days…. I guess they love hoppy beer here in NZ!!!!

The other thing I’ve noticed is the public toilets.  Every town has at least one set, larger towns have more.  Not sure who is looking after them, but those that I have used are clean.  Sure is nice to have those available.  

Day 24 - Tapawera

 I had a later start today because I was having so much fun visiting with Sharon, and it was a shorter day, mostly flat on a cycling trail.  I’m starting to deviate a bit from the route in the book.  

The cycle trail was great….and everything was going great.  I had a bit of a long stop at the bakery in Wakefield, and after that my energy was zapped.  I ate a big meal last night, decent breakfast, second breakfast at Wakefield, but then just couldn’t get going.  It was a warm day….so I started drinking more water, then more.  Finally I had a few pieces of candy and that seemed to help.  Yeah!!!

The cycle trail brought me to Spooners Tunnel.  It’s 1352meters long, and is the fifth longest tunnel open to pedestrians and cyclists in the world!!!  I was glad that my light was charged because it’s so dark….cool too which was nice on such a warm day.  

After the tunnel I met a couple of hikers who joined me at the bakery in Kōhatu where I had first dinner.  They are training to do the Milford Sound trek in a few weeks.  She is 80years old!!!!  Wow.  No sitting on the couch for her….quite the inspiration.  

It was only 8km to Tapawera where I settled in, then had second dinner, visiting with two cyclists who just cycled through the mountains!  Wow….spectacular views there.  The options for cycling and hiking are limitless around here!!!  They met two guys, one cycling, one pushing a wheelbarrow, picking up trash as he’s going along….while carrying a huge backpack.  And they are taking the hardest routes….now that is next level!!!!  So amazing to meet all these people!  

Thanks for all the texts and messages.  Don’t forget to check out the ta26.maprogress.com