April 29 - Otira

 We left Reefton this morning with the plan of backtracking what we did yesterday because the views were so amazing, and we were wanting to see the blowholes at Punakaiki at high tide to see if they are more impressive at that time.  So we set the alarm clock for early and hit going.  High tide was at 0930 this morning and we estimated that it would take us 2 hours to get back to Punakaiki.  

On our way yesterday we saw a sign for a seal colony….so that was our plan for today….to stop there on our way.  We got to the parking lot and noticed that there was an ambulance in the parking, three attendants and a rescue boat and truck on the beach.  Apparently two young surfers had gotten caught in the riptide.  When we arrived all the excitement was done, and everyone was packing up and leaving.  Glad everyone was ok.  

I took a short walk over to the seal colony and watched 4-5 sunning themselves on some rocks, and several pairs that were moving around.  There were waves, and sand and rocks.  I could have stayed and watched for hours watching and listening to the surf….but we were on a mission.  One more stop….back to the lighthouse.  

Eventually we made it back to Punakaiki and the blowholes.  They were about the same as yesterday….but another amazing place to watch the waves crashing into the rocks with so much force.  

It was now early afternoon….time to hit the road.  We planned on staying at the town of Arthur’s Pass on the road called Arthur’s pass.  By the time we arrived…the cafe was closing, and no rooms left in town.  We decided to backtrack to the town of Otira that we had just passed, where we saw the figure of Gollum - from Lord of the Rings- he’s sitting on the roof of the railway station…that’s turned into a restaurant and hotel.  

This place is amazing.  Antique furniture in all the rooms…including the toilets and sinks.  Antiques on the main floor…so much stuff to look at!  And the owner was proudly showing us bits and pieces as she showed us the rooms, cooked our meals and ran the place!  I don’t think she ever sits down!  The place is huge….and crammed full of antiques.  This place must be experienced in person to be fully appreciated.  We are having fun…and just love discovering places such as this.  What a find.  

Our room tonight in the old railway station

A collection of antiques just piled on the table 

One of 4 rooms filled with antiques

I just love a fire- especially when the fireplace is huge!

Viaduct on the Arthur’s Pass road.  Steep grades here, up to 18%.  Glad I’m driving and not cycling 

The blowhole at Punakaiki 

Lighthouse near Westport

Seals sunning themselves at the seal colony

The gorge near Reefton

One of the restaurants in Reefton.  All the store fronts and restaurants in Reefton have kept their original facades from the late 1800’s

The hand pies have become a favourite of ours.  These are savory, stuffed with minced meat and gravy.  Some are more exotic and are stuffed with butter chicken.  At the very first hotel that I stayed at when I arrived, the owner said that her cousin had moved to Edmonton and opened up the South Island Pie company.  Looks like he’s still in business….we will have to pay him a visit when we return!  

April 28 - Reefton

 After a breakfast of mushrooms on toast with eggs we headed off for the day.  Just a few km north was a town with a waterfall that we had to investigate.  A 4km walk to see the coal creek falls and they didn’t disappoint 😃

After the trek we headed north along the coast….such gorgeous views.  I think I stopped 8 times to take pictures in the first 20km!!!  Eventually I decided we needed to make done distance, so I kept stopping, but for a shorter time!!!  😃😃😃

Finally we arrived in the town of Punakaiki and went for a stroll to check out the pancake rocks and the blowholes - took a lot more pictures here!!!  So spectacular- and we were at low tide.  We are planning on reversing our path tomorrow, and going earlier so we can see the blowholes at high tide.  

After that we went inland to the town of Reefton.  The first 50km were next to the gorge, and we still had some amazing views here.  I was questioning my plan to come out here, but it was so worth it.  

A blow hole

Pancake rocks 

Coal creek falls

A wild orchid the size of my baby fingernail 

Coal creek falls 

A small black mushroom

April 27 - Greymouth

 Although this would be a short driving day from Ross to Greymouth, - less than 80km, we decided to make a little detour after some beach time in Hokitika.  We headed East on a road that was part of the cycling route - Tour Aotearoa - but I didn’t take it as it was an out and return and it was pouring rain that day.  So we headed out, went to see the Hokitika Gorge….a beautiful 3km walk, then to the Cowboy Ranch - beautiful farm land and we saw one spectacular waterfall.  Dorothy Falls.  There were also several walking paths and a beautiful lake.  We got lost just wandering around and it seems almost every turn there was something to see!  Great way to spend the afternoon. 

Eventually we headed to Greymouth….the beach in Hokitika was a fine sandy beach….black closer to the road, and light closer to the surf.  The beaches near Greymouth are rocky….no sand.  Just a few more days left before our adventure is over….we are having so much fun.  

Dorothy Falls

Sunset on the beach at Greymouth

Hokitika Gorge - the water really is that shade of blue

Hokitika Gorge

Hokitika Beach

April 26 - Ross

 Today is Ted’s birthday!!!  I picked up a huge piece of red velvet cake for us to enjoy later on.  This morning we had coffee in the animal sanctuary in Franz Josef - we saw a rare type of Kiwi birds, blue penguins that have been rescued because they are missing a limb, and the tuataras- reptiles.  All three only live in New Zealand.  We were there for the feeding of the penguins and the associated talk.  Interesting.  

Then it was a short drive to the town of Ross and the historic Empire hotel.  When I was cycling through a month ago, it was raining when I passed through, and didn’t realize the gem that I passed up by going to the next town of Harihari.  So we stopped in to check it out today, and we will be staying here tonight!!!  There’s a huge open fireplace in the centre of the bar, we have a huge modern room, and there’s a roast buffet tonight.  I think Ted is happy for his birthday.  We also ate the cake while sitting on the beach!!!  😃😃😃

Feeding the penguins 

April 25 - Franz Josef Glacier

 It was a short drive from Haast to Franz Josef, so we took the opportunity to stop at every pullout that had a view.  Roads continue to be narrow and windy, so this also gave me a chance to allow the cars behind me to pass.  I have a hard time going the speed limit, and I’m often 10-20 km/hr below the speed limit.  

We made a stop at Knight’s Point….the same spot where Katherine saw me a month ago!  Hard to believe that it’s been that long!!!  The trees are turning colours, some have dropped their leaves, and it has cooled off.  

I went for a short hike to get a better look at the glacier.  I walked about 6km return, but didn’t get anywhere near the glacier.  It’s currently about 19km from the coast, and scientists believe that it used to extend into the sea.  

Knight’s point

Bruce Bay

Breakfast…red Kiwi which is sweeter than a green or golden kiwi and Fajola which taste like a mix of pineapple and guava but gritty like a pear.  

April 24 - Haast

 Today was all about water and views!!!  It started with Lake Wanaka and the tree that grows in the lake….then several other lakes.  Every time we went around a curve the view changed.  We stopped as often as we could to take pictures.  Clear lakes that look like glass, with snow capped mountains towering over them and lined with trees that are changing colours.  Spectacular.  After we left the lakes behind, then there were the waterfalls.  We are on the west coast, but inland a bit.  Tomorrow we will have views of the Tasman Sea.  

Interesting tree

Roaring Billy Falls

River flowing beside Haast Pass

Thunder Creek waterfall

Fantail waterfall on Haast Pass

Lake Hawea

Trees lining the driveway into a vineyard

The tree that’s growing in Lake Wanaka

Lake Wanaka