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Hello….i had a very fun and relaxing day. It helped that the wind has finally calmed down, and so have the hills! Apparently New Zealand is the hilliest place in the world….i did not fact checked this, just going by experience ππ
I said goodbye to my gracious hosts Della, Dave and Elizabeth - headed back to the bike shop with a few questions and some breakfast across the street. I sat for a long time just enjoying FaceTime with Ted. The shop was on the was to Mount Eden, photo checkpoint #5.
The 196m high Mayngawhau is the highest volcano in Auckland, New Zealand’s largest city. MΔori named this crater ‘Te Ipu-a-Mataaho’ - the bowl of Mataaho. This is where Mataaho, god of secrets hidden within the earth, is said to have lived. When his wife left him and took his clothes with her, the goddess Mahuta brought fires upon the earth to keep him warm. These fires became the other volcanos in the Auckland area.
From the top was a great view of Auckland and both the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman sea. I cycled to the top, then once there was an elevated wooden path around the top….about 500m. I started going around, then realized there were a few steps down, then a few more….then lots more. I didn’t really think it through - so I ended up going all the way around, with about 20 sets of 4-5 steps that I bumped my bike down while trying not to lose my balance!!! What I sight I must have been.
This was an extra long detour after a leisurely breakfast. So off I went through the city on bike paths out to the wharf to catch the ferry across to Pine Harbour. I ran into two other TA participants and we had a nice visit on our way over. I stopped for a leisurely lunch overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It is so blue. And beautiful. And amazing. I didn’t want to leave….but I did have to make some tracks. It was almost 3 pm, and the only accommodations were back about 7 km, or forward 45km. So off I went.
I was by the ocean for a bit, then back inland. I was passing by a house, surrounded by pots of flowers and two men standing outside. The shouted out hello, and an offer of carrot cake and coffee…..yummy. So I stopped for a brief visit and cake before continuing on.
This camping spot is about 2.5km off the track, but the next camping spot is another 25km farther, and with darkness about 90 min away I decided to stay here instead of continuing on to the hot springs. This is when I started to regret my leisurely breakfast and lunch. πππ
This camping place is nice, but there are several TA members at the hot springs. My plan is to get going really early, and maybe I’ll catch up to a few and have some company tomorrow.
Last night we had a good evening catching up with people I’ve ridden with for the past few days, and made a few new friends.
An early start this morning for the boat ride across from Puoto Point to Helensville. Bikes loaded and down to the beach by 0630. Then all the bags had to be removed to be loaded onto the top of the boat. This took about an hour to load about 35 bikes. The ride across lasted 3 hours, then another hour to unload the bikes, reattach all the bags then head off. A quick bite in Helensville and all of the sudden it was noon, and I had only cycled a few km! Yikes….get going!!!! A fellow rider - Elizabeth offered for me to stay at her parent’s place….how sweet…I’m really looking forward to meeting them….they lived in Kaslo for several years. Kaslo is our favourite place to ride, and we visit there every year, so I know that they are wonderful people.
The ride to Auckland was along a busy road for about 15 km, and then quieter roads, then a bike path….all tarmac π. I headed directly to Bennys Bike Shop to change out my tires. I need more agressive tires for the upcoming gravel roads. They were just amazing, not only did they find the tires I needed in the right size, but installed them, cleaned my chain and adjusted my brakes….all for the cost of the tires, they didn’t charge me any labour!
Cycled back to Elizabeth’s place where a feast awaited me….Della is an amazing chef and dad Dave kept me entertained! Such a lovely evening, dinner and wine, shower, laundry and a huge bed! Magnificent. ❤️
Not everything goes according to plan-and that just part of the adventure ππ
Once again spectacular views. I tried to stop a bit more today to take photos….but the most soeovurws are across the road…usually when I’m going uphill.
I had an early start this morning, packing up in the dark, so that I could leave at first light-around 7am. The first 50km were on the paved road…some hills, but not like yesterday. These were a bit more reasonable in size….except that there were 13 hills, and some smaller hills that weren’t classified as hills….but they were up anyways.
The gravel section wasn’t too bad….but near the end I took a bit of a tumble. We had a strong gusty southerly wind all day, and that’s what caught me and over I went. I did need a bit of a hand to get my chain on, and since I was less than 2km from the end…. I mostly walked it.
This was about the time that I found out that the ferry was cancelled for today. That was my reason for getting up early, so that I could make the 1730 ferry. It’s not really a ferry, it actually a boat that people can rent. During the tour Aotearoa he has several sailings….just one per day, timed with the tides and all in the late afternoon so that riders have time to ride the 73km with 850m of elevation gain. The boat ride is $900, but is divided up according to how many people are on it, never less than $95. For the TA riders it’s $65.
With the cancellation it meant that everyone who was planning on being on the ferry is camped out at Puoto point….just a basic campground, and a small shop that sells chips and ice cream. Everyone is making the best of it….getting to know some of the other riders since we are all together. A sizeable kitchen, and a huge sitting room with several couches and tables and chairs. Lots of visiting going on. Many people seem to know my name for some reason….and many are very nice.
If the wind dies down, the sailing will be at 0630….that means tents packed up and bikes loaded by 0615. Likely no time for breakfast. The alternative is to spend the day here, and hope for an evening sailing tomorrow night which isn’t very appealing as it’s a 2-3hr ferry ride….which means setting up the tent in the dark on the other side after an evening sailing.
The plan is Auckland tomorrow….maybe a bit farther.
Today was a fantastic day….best day ever….well in recent memory at least! Last night I was looking at today’s route and I got really scared about the massive hills….i was seriously contemplating returning to a larger town and renting a car….and I’m so glad I didn’t do that. Yes there were massive hills, and yes they were hard, but not nearly as hard as I thought.
An early start meant that the roads were fairly quiet. A big (not massive) hill right outside of town to warm me up!!! Walked a bit of it when the grade increased. Then another hill….then a flat section. Just before the massive hill there was a grocery store in a small town. The only store or gas station on the route today. A hot quiche and some water hit the spot.
Time for the massive hill….5.8km long with 347m of elevation gain! Usually big hills are around 1km long and less than 100m of gain. That’s why I called this massive, and there were three in total today. I rode through a beautiful forest, and because I was so slow I got yo enjoy it for a long time π. At the top of the hill was checkpoint photo #3.
Tane Mahuta which translates as “lord of the forest”. It is one of the largest known living kauri in New Zealand at 51.3m tall and a girth of 13.77m. It is thought to be over 1800 years old. Th gum of the tree was highly prized by the MΔori as a fire starter and a medicine. Soot from the burnt gum was commonly used in tattooing.
There is a fungus that has been killing off the Kauri trees, and that fungus has been detected only 60 meter away. In order to safeguard the Tane Mahuta, before getting onto the trail, shoes must be scrubbed with a brush, then washed with a disinfectant. There is an elevated trail, about 1.5m above the forest floor to ensure no spores from shoes don’t accidentally get brought close to the tree.
After all that….it was so worth seeing. It is magnificent.
When I was getting ready to leave the area I saw 4 motorbikers….so asked them some recommendations of roads to take and things to see….they were a bit puzzled when they saw my pedal bike….but when I explained that we would be renting motorbikes in April they understood, and gave me lots of ideas of what to see. I excited for that part of our holiday too.
Another big hill….and at the top was a little ice cream shop and a building that said gum shop…. I thought chewing gum…a whole shop devoted to gum….but it was actually gum from the trees.
The scenery is spectacular….rolling hills that are so lush and green with a few flowers in the ditch. Part way through today’s ride on the highway, we turned off onto a gravel road….riding about half of today’s distance on gravel.
About 7km from town, after all the hills were done, I noticed several cyclists stopped….i was planning on continuing as I had just stopped to eat a banana and cookies about 5km back. But of course went over when one cyclist waved me over. It was the infamous watermelon stop!!! So glad I didn’t miss it! Three young people handing out watermelon slices and ice cold water….it just doesn’t get any better!!!! They also had a tandem bicycle and took people on ridesπ. True trail Angels!
Once in town I set up my tent and headed to have a burger. Chatted with other cyclists while I was waiting. It’s interesting….every single Kiwi that I have a conversation with all ask me how we like our new Prime Minister….fantastic I always say. They all talk about his speech at the World Economic Forum, and how impressed they are with him. It’s great getting to know other like minded people half way around the world.
A long post….and now it’s time for sleep…another big day tomorrow.
Finally made a bit of distance today….75km and 500m elevation gain.
Last night we slept on the covered deck of the tavern, and the owner left the door open for us so we could use the washroom during the night. So kind. We did try several times to leave them some money….but we were unsuccessful….so we left a note and cash on the bar for them to find. We didn’t even put up tent, just slept under the stars!
Today’s weather was a bit of a mixed bag. Cool and misty in the morning….and then around 1030 it got really hot and sunny. Some light rain and sun followed to warm and dry us off. I managed to duck under a big white tent for the first downpour which was great.
The hillside is rolling hills, and very green and lush. We are now riding more inland….with the occasional view of a beach. I didn’t get any good pictures of the scenery with all the rain, but will try tomorrow.
Today we had a short trip on a ferry, arrived just in time for the ferry then more cycling. The cycling is very challenging….so many steep hills. I’m doing better, but once it gets to 10% grade I need to push my bike!
Tonight I’m in a dorm….a dry bed with access to a clothes dryer, and the owner has cooked up some curry for everyone! Yummy. Now we are trying to place our bikes under a bit of shelter.
I wanted to start off today’s blog by telling you how wonderful the people that I have met are….and likely almost everyone that I haven’t met as well!!!! The cyclists are wonderful, the people in the shops and the hotels. Tim at the cycle shop in Kerikeri. Anne and Dan who brought me into their house to cool off with the shade and cold water. Fiona at the B&B….drive me downtown for dinner. Allan and company at the restaurant keeping me company during dinner. The campground keeper who gave us some fresh fish for dinner last night. Kay…my riding partner for a few days at least.
The other thing that I’ve noticed is that their currency is similar to ours in the size, colour and security. Their $2 coin is similar to our loonie. So many similarities that I feel quite at home here. And the views so far are spectacular. This may be a place to relocate if Alberta decides to separate!!!! π
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