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July 17 - Day 72 - Rimouski 62 km

This is the only photo I took….second breakfast with an entire fruit bowl on top.  Glad I told them to hold the chocolate!!!

I slept outside last night without a tent!  My first really bivy and it was great.  While I was doing laundry last night there was thunder and looked like it was going to storm, so I asked if I could move into the shelter for the night.  I gathered all my things, got them into the shelter, then returned for my laundry.  When I got back there was a couple who were installed in the shelter….playing cards and drinking wine.  I gave them some space, but at 1030 I just set up outside, they didn’t leave till after 1130.  Thankfully it didn’t rain, I figured that if it did rain I would just quickly move inside.  

This morning I got up at 0500, and started playing with the tent poles.  They broke right away…. I was thinking of a solution…and trying something else….but really three strikes, you’re out!  I should just cut my losses and replace the tent.  

I turned on my GPS just as I was leaving, it has somehow lost connection with my phone.  So after 45 min of playing around I finally got it to work somewhat.  So once again, I was up at 0500, but not really on the road until 0800!  A stop at Tim’s to wait out some rain, second breakfast at 30 km to wait out more rain.  Then arrived in pouring rain!  But at least I’m here.  Couldn’t get into the hostel just yet, so found a bar and had some amazing French onion soup and poutine.  

Along the way today I met another bike packer from California.  He’s doing a circle route….he was in Labrador when he had a bike issue, so he took a boat from there to Rimouski….it goes once a week and stops at all the little villages that are only accessible by boat.  What a spectacular way to see that area.  

After getting into my room, I gathered my tent, and mailed it home with the poles.  Then I headed to an outdoor store to replace it.  No ultralight tents here ☹️. The only thing that’s as lightweight and packs down as small as what I have is a bivy bag.  It is a shelter the same size as my mattress, with a half dome allowing about 12 inches of height at my head.  And that’s it.  I did consider it, but with about 25 more days …..I don’t think I can do it!  So I bought a tent.  Twice the size and 4 times the weight….but I can carry it on the bike, and it will last out the trip!  

So a lovely evening in Rimouski.  I did not stop in St Valérien yesterday because of the rain, and it is a 16 km detour.  That will have to wait till next time I guess.  

July 16 - Day 71 - Trois Pistoles 80km

Can you imagine having this as the name of your home town?  Not only is it a mouthful, sept means seven and douleurs means pain.  So not sure if it’s seven different types of pain, or maybe they’ve never heard of Tylenol or fentanyl etc!!!

I stopped for a strawberry float with strawberry ice cream in top!!!  Yummmy

Third time for this pole repair 

Nice view of the seaway this morning with the tide in.  

The path to the lighthouse was lined with wild roses 

A few selfies.  I had to pile a lot of rocks to get the correct angle

Another really hot day, not sure how hot it got to, but after it had cooled off, my GPS said 30C.  And humid…continues to feel tropical.  

I stayed on the secondary highway again today, and detoured through many of the small towns as I was passing through.  The tide was up this morning, so it made for some spectacular views.  So many beautiful spots today and yesterday too.  

I didn’t get too far today, as I wanted to stay in a town that had a restaurant.  Last evening I had a beer and hot dog, which was the largest meal in their snack list, but nothing for breakfast until I got to Trois Rivières- 30 km ride.  No gas station - nothing.  And I had forgotten to check yesterday for the food situation, so didn’t bring anything with me.  

So I’m trying to fix my broken pole again….it will either be third time’s the charm or three strikes and you’re out!!!!  The campground here has a shelter, so I asked if I could set up in there tonight as there was a lot of thunder, but it didn’t produce any rain.  Regardless I’m set in there tonight.  The forecast is for rain tomorrow, which is great for the heat, but not so much for my broken tent, but there is a hostel in Rimouski, so I’ll be ok for the night.  Might even spend two nights there.  And then depending on the weather, I’ll continue a bit farther in the Gaspé area before I detour and head south to New Brunswick.  I’ve decided not to go all the way around, as the hills are tall and very steep.  I’ll save it for when Ted and I go across Canada on the motorcycles.  

So another great day…..I’m looking forward to tomorrow.  

July 15 - Day 70 - Kamouraska - 113 km

Dinner tonight

Second fix attempt of the broken pole

Used bungee to tie up my tent

Dinner spot

Nice view of the seaway

Nice path fir about 20 km today 

River

Hello everyone….another good day.  I rode further than I thought I would in this heat, but I was really hoping for a bit more….like another 30 km!!!  Crazy thoughts for sure.  

I got up at 0530, although I didn’t get much sleep last night,  since the pole fix needed to cure overnight, I used the inner tent which is mesh as a bivy bag.  Well I knew that the mesh would keep the mosquitoes out, but I didn’t realize that with the mesh lying on top of me…that they would be able to sting me through the mesh!  It was too hot to be inside the sleeping bag….so I was in and out of the bag all night!  I finally got up at 0530 and packed up slowly.  Our neighbors from last night were interested in my set up, so I went through everything with her….she was also checking out DIY sites…..a fellow minimalist!!!  Love it 😊 

I had left over cheese and crackers and grapes for first breakfast.  After about 20 km I headed to the transcanada highway and a restaurant for second breakfast.  I asked for a fruit bowl, but they didn’t have that, but she gave me 6 slices of orange!  That was great!  It was an 8 km detour, but worth it,  about an hour later, I passed by a little shop that sold ready made food….so a shrimp poke bowl fit the bill.  

The cycling today was relatively easy….a nice tail wind, and not too many hills….but  it’s still hot and muggy.  The views of the St Lawrence were spectacular today, and I even rode 20 km on a nice gravel road and took a couple of detours into a few small towns.  Just lovely riding today.  

My original plan was a campground about 13 km farther, but it’s on the main highway.  A local was chatting with me about my bike and ride, and suggested this campsite.  Rustic, but good amenities….and there’s a microbrewery only 500m from the campground, with a path off the highway,  I think half the campground is here!!!!  

So I’ve showered, second attempt at the pole fix, set up the tent so hopefully the mosquitoes can’t bite me all night long, and now I’m enjoying a beer and some dinner,  lovely spot here for sure.  Slowly but surely getting to the point where I’ll have to make a decision….but not tonight!  I’ll push it off a few more days….burning my heart I think I’ve already made my decision!  Stay tuned 😀

July 14 - Day 69 - Montmagny - 100 km

The repair….hope it hardens by morning 

Cheese curds amazing in their own….best as topping for poutine 

Fruit to go with the cheese curds

Chateau Frontenac from the ferry

My ferry ticket 😂😂😂

The flooded underpass

Chutes Montmorency

Lunch break with a view 

 What an amazing day!!!!  I had so much fun today.  😀. I got up at 0530, and realized that I had oatmeal and Chai tea with me….excellent, as breakfast is over an hour away…and I didn’t really eat any dinner.  I quickly packed up and headed off under cloudy skies.  There was a bit of drizzle, but not bad enough to put on a jacket.  It actually cooled me off a bit….still so hot and muggy.  Feels tropical actually.  So much debris on the road with washouts due to the amount of rain that fell yesterday.  

When I got close to the bridge to get off the island, I noticed a store, so headed in.  It’s an amazing bakery/butcher/grocery store….just amazing.  I’m trying to eat well….but really the only thing she had for breakfast was a croissant, filled with almond paste then covered in chocolate….so I had to eat it!!!!  That and an earl grey tea…..yummm.  I bought a sandwich for lunch and a drink….I'm all set.  The bridge was just as scary as yesterday, thankfully with less traffic.  Finally off the bridge, I headed back to Québec city on the same path as yesterday.  

With all the water that fell yesterday, I was only thinking about the debris on the road, and the standing water puddles, but I never thought about the flooded underpasses.  I had one underpass to navigate….there was a sump pump going….but I couldn’t wait….so in I went!  I had no idea how deep the water was.  The farther I went, the water kept creeping up and up and up….the water level peaked once the bottom of my shorts were wet.  Which meant wet shoes for the day.  I had briefly contemplated removing my cycling shoes….but that was too much work, so wet feet it was!

I decided to take the ferry from Québec city to the south side of the St Lawrence….it would have saved me lots of time if I hadn’t gone around in circles for 30 min trying to find the place.  Construction, no signage and just a man sitting beside a small kiosk covered in small sticky labels in bright orange that said - On Strike. Ferry operators and bus drivers have been on strike for the past two weeks….just when festival is happy in Québec city.  Anyways….this small nondescript place was it, and he sold me a ticket.  He sold me a ticket for  was about to say something….but he actually saved me money..,.so all good with me.  😳😀

The ferry ride was short, but I managed to get some nice photos of Old Québec and the Chateau Frontenac.  On the other side…I was tired.  I had only cycled 40 km so far, but it was now 1230, it was getting hotter by the minute.  I sat in the shade, drank some water and ate my sandwich and second croissant- they were only sold in pairs of course!!!!  Eventually I headed out…and actually I was feeling good, much better than I thought I would be feeling.  I chose this town because it has a Canadian tire so that I can buy something to repair my pole, and a selection of restaurants and a campground.  I called the campground several times….no answer.  Well….I kept on going, hoping that I could sweet talk whoever was in charge to give me a small place to set up my tent.  

I passed a cheese shop when I was only 15 km away from the town, so I went in and bought some fruit and cheese curds.  They had just taken them out of the fridge as they should be eaten at room temp.  When I got to the campground the lady in charge said you must be Lucille on the bike!  Yup, that’s me.  She couldn’t believe that I had cycled all the way from port Hardy!  We were chatting, me practicing my French and having fun,,,I then offered her some of my cheese curds as the package was much too big.  She said no, but the man who’s going to show me to my campsite….he would love some she said.  So I offered him the cheese curds when he entered….well he was over the moon!  So excited….best cheese curds around he said!  When I finally got around to eating them….oh were they tasty. Glad I had shared though…..as I hate to waste.  

Met a couple who are also cycling….just a small tour of 2000 km. He was a mechanic in a hospital, so knew how to use the stuff I bought for the pole repair.  With the humidity it’s not curing as quickly as we thought….so I’m in my tent without poles tonight…..feels like a bivy bag…..except that the mosquitoes can bite me through the mesh because it’s on me.  I’ll have to get inside my sleeping bag even though it’s still hot outside.  Hopefully the pole repair works. It will take over 10 days to get a replacement set, and I’m not sure where to send it.  Maybe I’ll call them tomorrow….in the mean time fingers crossed that the repair works.  I can still put up my tent….but it’s wonky, and it’s not water proof.  Well….one day at a time.  😀

July 13 - Day 68 - L’ile d’Orleans 54 km

Under the covered deck during the thunderstorm 

Nice view 

Strawberry ice cream with a view 

Strawberries 

View of the Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré from the Quai

 Short cycling day, a touring day.  I slept in, thankfully it didn’t rain, and my tent held up for the night with the broken pole hub.  I do have a sleeve for a broken pole, but there’s a three way hub assembly - and that’s where it’s broken.  I did not pass by any stores that would have what I need for a repair….thats for tomorrow.  

I got up early and walked over to the cathedral - about 1km, and left my bike behind….much easier this way.  Mass was just finishing when I entered, so I listened to the music.  It’s been a while since  I’ve heard mass in French….brings back nice memories.  They still have on display the crutches and mobility aids left behind after people were cured of their ailment.  

After that I picked up a tea, and ate the left overs from dinner last night for breakfast.  Packed up and headed back to the cycling route.  It was a hot day….and slow going because of the oppressive heat….i would feel a bit of cool as I crossed creeks and sometimes the shade from trees.  

There's only one way to get on and off the island, one bridge which is so busy.  I was looking for the pedestrian lane, but realized that there’s a sidewalk on each side of the bridge, and only one lane of traffic in each direction….so constant traffic on a narrow bridge with a narrow sidewalk.  My plan is to be on the bridge early tomorrow so that it’s not as busy.  

I toured around the south of the island….lots of up and down….and of course lots of strawberries for sale 😀😀.  I was looking for those that are sold with cream, but couldn’t find any….but I did find some strawberry ice cream, and it was so good.  I ate it while sitting overlooking the water and Québec city.  

I could see the thunderstorm approaching, and could hear the thunder and was trying hard to make it to my hostel for the night, but when it started sprinkling I figured I should stop and let it pass by.  I just happened to be at a small shop with a covered sitting area.  I brought my bike up to that spot, and the owner came out…obviously not pleased.  I mentioned the rain…she rolled her eyes, and said well just this once because it wasn’t busy….there was no one there!  I said I was here to eat…but that didn’t seem to help.  We chatted while I ordered food and drink…and she softened up….I'm travelling solo?  Across Canada?  The usual questions after that….how long have I been gone?  How many KM per day?  Where do I sleep?  Where is all my stuff?  😂😂😂

As I was sitting the thunderstorm came through….short, about 20 min but fierce.  Just as I thought it was letting up, it intensified.  So glad I was somewhere safe!  After it let up, I continued on and found the Auberge.  I assisted an older gentleman to bring in luggage, even though he didn’t want the help…didn’t want it but needed the help.  Then he told me he’s 92 and had done a bit of a cycling trip at the age of 22 in Europe!  Nice story, I was happy to hear him recount how it was for him to cycle.  

Three more storms passed through over the next few hours as I got ready for bed.  

Thanks for the texts and blog comments…always enjoy those 😀.  I’ll see how far I get tomorrow on the south side.  

July 12 - Day 67 - Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré

A Church in Québec city that has been repurposed into a library 

My lovely tour guide Loretta

View of the bay and chateau Frontenac from the hill

This is the restaurant where I ordered dinner….this is my mom’s name 😀😀😀

Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré shrine

Chutes Montmorency

So I’m just about 30 km north of Québec city with just over 6200 km cycled to date.  I’ve taken 5 weather days…so I’ve averaged 100 km/day of cycling.  Not bad!  Today was only 68 km, and almost 9 km of walking.  

This morning I got up early as the plan was to meet up with Loretta at 10 am at her place which is walking distance to the old Québec.  I was a bit delayed as I was trying to find breakfast along my route.  I had a tea and cookies at a gas station, then just a few km from her place I found a Tim’s for second breakfast.  Good 

Bike paths all the way to her place made for easy riding.  Sometimes I was close to the road, and was so glad I wasn’t there.  Stress free riding!  

We met up, and after stashing my bike at her place, we started walking.  Festival is happening right now in the city, so there are lots of people around, and street performers, music, and lots of roads closed off to vehicles - pedestrian only!!!  FUN!!!  

We started off with early lunch or third breakfast for me!  Then we started walking, it didn’t feel like we had walked very far, but my phone said almost 9km!!!  We walked up a hill to see the bay and chateau Frontenac ….then we headed down and walked along the board walk. This was exactly what I was hoping for….a nice view of the city.  Now the thing about hanging out with locals…is that they have great ideas of what to see and do, different from my plan….but since it’s only me…. I can change the plan!!! I wasn’t planning on going to see Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré, nor was I planning on L’ile d’Orleans, the island just off of Québec city.  I’ve been to both as a kid…with the forecast and distances, it worked out best for me to come this way.  And now I’ve broken a tent pole, so will head back into the city on Monday to see if I can get a replacement part, or repair what I have.  

Thanks for all the texts!  All is good!😊